Columns by John

John Brown has been a wine and food columnist in West Virginia since the 1980’s. His regular columns appear in the Charleston (WV) Gazette-Mail under the title Vines & Vittles.

How I Forgot Valentine’s Day And Learned To Live The Monastic Life

chandon.jpgGuys, trust me on this: women take Valentine’s Day very seriously! Hey, I’m no Dr. Phil (and I’m certainly not Dr. Ruth), but I do know that there will be serious consequences if you forget to do something special for your significant other on February 14.

I learned this the hard way a couple of decades ago when I arrived home after a hard day at work to find a candle–lit dinner table with a carafe of red wine, soft-jazz on the stereo and a Hallmark card the size of an armadillo waiting for me when I walked through the door. There was also a heart-shaped gift on the kitchen counter,and the wonderful smells of freshly baked bread. Was I in the right house? Was I in the Twilight Zone?

No, I was in the home of a romantic woman who just happened to be my wife -- and I had completely forgotten that this was Valentine’s Day.

To my wife’s credit, she seemed to understand and accept my heart-felt apologies as we enjoyed the fruits of her culinary skills. However, for the next several weeks, there was a distinct chill in the air at home, particularly in certain rooms. I now know how difficult it must be to live a monastic life.

You can avoid a similar fate by simply remembering this special date and you can actually win favor by giving the gift of wine along with the more pedestrian card, candy and flowers. Wine is an especially good choice if you plan to 'cook in' for Valentine’s Day. I plan on seasoning a couple of beef filets with kosher salt and black pepper and grilling them over charcoal. I’ll accompany the beef with sautéed mushrooms and shallots in a little butter and the same red wine I’ll have with the meal. A baked potato and some steamed asparagus will round out the meal. For dessert, I’ll cheat and buy a tray of heavenly pecan bars from the fine folks at Charleston Bread. For you chocolate lovers, I recommend the wonderful offerings at Holl's Chocolates at the shop on Bridge Road or at the Capitol Market.

Wine suggestions for Valentine’s Day: For an aperitif to set the mood before dinner, open a bottle of Domaine Chandon Blanc De Noirs (photo above) which is a slightly rose- colored sparkler from California ($20). For the main course, a good Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon such as 2002 Provenance ($27) or a Bordeaux like the 2002 Chateau Gruaud Larose ($44) would be excellent choices. For dessert, I’ll accompany the pecan ditties with a Robert Pecota Moscato ($14). Those of you having chocolate might want to try Warre’s Tawny Port ($20), or just save a little of the Cabernet or Bordeaux and experience a real treat. Ensure your love life – remember Valentine’s Day.

WineBoy6: ‘Getting the Dish on Bridge Road Bistro’

WineBoy6: ‘Getting the Dish on Bridge Road Bistro’

In episode 6 of "WineBoy," host John Brown heads ups to Robert Wong's Bridge Road Bistro for a tasty pairing of wine and food. Executive chef Paco Aceves shares with Brown a chicken penne pasta dish from the Bistro's recently revised menu. Brown pairs it with a French red wine from a new wine list by general manager Amy Sue Gates. You'll be hungry before it's all over. And wait for those credits to roll...

WineBoy 9: Hey, my wine’s too warm! And hers is too cold.

WineBoy 9: Hey, my wine’s too warm! And hers is too cold.

You know what makes WineBoy mad, really mad? Watch the webcast of WineBoy 9 by clicking here as host John Brown discusses the proper serving temperature of wine while lamenting how few restaurants - even the fancy-shmancy ones- pay attention to this very important aspect of wine appreciation. He'll also tell you about a very tasty Australian red with an Italian pedigree. Oh, and you'll love his interview with Pierre N'Cest Pas, a Frenchman with some strong opinions about American wine.

Sicilian Wine and Food: An Offer You Can’t Refuse!

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Ask an Italian what wine they consider to be best, and they will invariably point to a winery down the street or to a vineyard on the hillside adjacent to their village. This is a country around which wine and food are the central components of everyday life, and citizens are justifiably proud of what is grown in the fertile soil of this ancient land.

As a wine-stained graduate of Whatsamatta U, I am understandably partial to the vino made in Italy. As a matter of fact, what I love most about Italian wine is its tremendous diversity. Within the geographic confines of its 20 states, Italy produces a virtual sea of wine from a dizzying array of grapes. The most famous wine states are Tuscany in north-central Italy and Piedmont in the northwest. In Tuscany, the great wines of Brunello di Montalcino and Ornellaia share the stage with the ubiquitous Chianti, and whites such as Vernaccia Di San Gimignano. In Piedmont, the prestigious vines of Barolo and Barbaresco (made from the Nebbiolo grape) reign supreme, and are joined by Barbera and Merlot along with crisp whites such as Arneis and Cortese Di Gavi. Both of these regions are in the northern part of the country where the wine produced is considered to be the best.



But what about the wines of the south and, more specifically, of Sicily? In the recent past, the cognoscenti would regularly heap praise on the wines of northern Italy, while those south of Rome were, at best, marginalized, and those of Sicily were dismissed as barely drinkable. Unfortunately, when most of us ruminate on Sicily, we conjure up images of the Mafia or Don Vito Corleone – a literary invention of the late American novelist Mario Puzo in his book "The Godfather." To butcher a line from that storied work: Sicily made me an offer I couldn't refuse - great food and wine!

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Ask any wine-knowledgeable person about Sicily and most will mention Corvo, the decent, but pedestrian, label that includes both white and red wines blended from obscure Sicilian grapes. But that was then and this is now! On a trip to Sicily last summer, I experienced the incredible cuisine and surprisingly superb wines of that land just off the southern Italian mainland. The food, of course, is influenced by the sea which surrounds the island, and by the cornucopia of herbs, vegetables and fruits – some of which (like rosemary) grow wild in the fields and on hillsides. We spent our entire five days in and around Taormina, a resort area in southern Sicily in the shadow of towering Mount Etna, an 11,000-foot active volcano. The delicious and fresh pastas were dressed with an assortment of seafood such as mussels, razor clams, swordfish, shrimp and calamari, and flavored with lemon, rosemary, garlic and other locally-grown herbs and vegetables.

To wash down all this wonderful food, my wife and I, joined by four hedonistic friends, consumed just about every type of wine produced in Sicily. The most famous indigenous red made there is called Nero d’Avola, a fragrant, cherry and dark fruit-flavored wine produced in various styles from light to very concentrated.

But what really surprised and pleased my palate was a 1999 Planeta Syrah (not yet available here). This Sicilian wine had wonderful richness and concentration with black pepper spice and lively acidity that married unbelievably well with the grilled and rosemary-scented rack of lamb we consumed at Casa Gruno, a gourmet restaurant in the heart of Taormina.

pinocchio.gifThere are a few Sicilian wines available locally that give you a hint of the quality enhancements being made in Sicily. You might try the 2005 Pinocchio ($12 -- see the telltale 'nose' of this brand on label at right) which is a Nero d’Avola red that is made in a bright, fruit-forward style, or the more complex 2005 Planeta La Segreta ($18 ) that blends Nero d’Avola with Merlot and Syrah to produce a deeper, fuller-bodied wine. Another favorite of mine is the cleverly-named Fourplay ($14) which is a blend of four grapes including the above-mentioned Nero d’Avola.

Sicily also produces delicious Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon which are sometimes blended with Nero d’Avola . These wines are most likely available only in “big city” wine shops. Native white grape varieties such as Inzolia and Carricante are regularly blended with Chardonnay and sometimes Viognier to produce wonderful accompaniments to the fresh seafood dishes. Crisp, with melon and citrus flavors, these wines are not only delicious they are refreshing.

While there is presently limited availability for the wines of Sicily in our Mountain State, you can check for them online. Look for quality wine producers such as Spadafora, Tasca D’Almerita, Cottanera, Planetta and Villagrande.

Spicy Pork Roll-Ups – Or, how I learned to cook and avoid the Honey –Do’s

infinitus.jpgOver the years, I’ve discovered that one of the very best excuses for getting out of “real” work (such as shoveling snow, moving furniture or cleaning the basement) is to cook dinner for the family. My wife, who must have been a hostage negotiator in a former life, made it clear to me that the only way this would be an acceptable trade-off was if I agreed to clean the kitchen up after working my culinary magic. So, after formally signing an agreement witnessed by my children, our local clergyman and the family cat, I am now permitted kitchen privileges once a weekend.
Here’s what I concocted on recent Sunday. I truly love to match full-flavored, spicy foods such as stews, pot roasts or stuffed meats with full-flavored red wines. Today, I’m going to share a recipe with you that is absolutely delicious, particularly if you can tolerate a good dose of garlic and a little heat.

1. Start with two one-half pound pieces of pork tenderloin. With a sharp knife, cut each piece length-wise in half. Then, butterfly the remaining pieces (length-wise) and put a sheet of wax paper under and over each piece. With a mallet, pound the meat to about one-eighth inch thickness (if you have trouble waking your teenage children, this will do the trick).
2. Next, roast a tablespoon of cumin seeds over medium heat in a sauce pan, stirring regularly for about one minute until the smoky flavors are released and wonderful smells permeate the kitchen. Then, in a mortar and pestle, grind the cumin fine and add one-quarter teaspoon of cayenne pepper, a teaspoon of black pepper and salt and a tablespoon of chili powder. Rub this mixture into the pieces of flattened pork and let meat sit in the refrigerator over night or for at least three hours.
3. For the stuffing, sauté (in three tablespoons of olive oil) one green and one red bell pepper (cut in one-half inch long strips), one-half chopped onion, three cloves of minced garlic and one small can of chopped green chilies. Remove from the heat when vegetables begin to soften. Then salt and pepper to taste and add one cup of diced Monterey jack cheese and one-half cup of unflavored bread crumbs. Microwave or cook two links of chorizo or Italian sausage, drain off fat, chop into small pieces and add to the mixture. Allow the mixture to cool in the refrigerator.
4. When the stuffing is cool, portion it evenly on the flattened pork tenderloin and roll them up, securing with butcher’s string or toothpicks. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and roast the pork rollups in a covered pan for about 35 minutes. Remove the meat and deglaze the roasting pan with a half cup of red wine, and then spoon over the sliced tenderloin rolls. Serve the meat with spicy rice or garlic mashed potatoes.

You’re going to need a fairly full-bodied red wine to accompany this dish. Here are some that I would consider: 2004 Infinitus Tempranillo (inky-purple and rich from the Jumilla region of Spain - $14); 2004 Marietta Old Vines Zinfandel (the big brother to Marietta Old Vines Red - $17); 2002 Allegrini Palazzo Della Torre Valpolicella (not your usual lighter-styled Valpolicella – this one is full and rich - $20); and 2002 d’Arenberg Laughing Magpie (this Australian Shiraz-Viognier blend is a spicy mouth-full - $22).

Enjoy!