Over the years, I’ve discovered that one of the very best excuses for getting out of “real” work (such as shoveling snow, moving furniture or cleaning the basement) is to cook dinner for the family. My wife, who must have been a hostage negotiator in a former life, made it clear to me that the only way this would be an acceptable trade-off was if I agreed to clean the kitchen up after working my culinary magic. So, after formally signing an agreement witnessed by my children, our local clergyman and the family cat, I am now permitted kitchen privileges once a weekend.
Here’s what I concocted on recent Sunday. I truly love to match full-flavored, spicy foods such as stews, pot roasts or stuffed meats with full-flavored red wines. Today, I’m going to share a recipe with you that is absolutely delicious, particularly if you can tolerate a good dose of garlic and a little heat.

1. Start with two one-half pound pieces of pork tenderloin. With a sharp knife, cut each piece length-wise in half. Then, butterfly the remaining pieces (length-wise) and put a sheet of wax paper under and over each piece. With a mallet, pound the meat to about one-eighth inch thickness (if you have trouble waking your teenage children, this will do the trick).
2. Next, roast a tablespoon of cumin seeds over medium heat in a sauce pan, stirring regularly for about one minute until the smoky flavors are released and wonderful smells permeate the kitchen. Then, in a mortar and pestle, grind the cumin fine and add one-quarter teaspoon of cayenne pepper, a teaspoon of black pepper and salt and a tablespoon of chili powder. Rub this mixture into the pieces of flattened pork and let meat sit in the refrigerator over night or for at least three hours.
3. For the stuffing, sauté (in three tablespoons of olive oil) one green and one red bell pepper (cut in one-half inch long strips), one-half chopped onion, three cloves of minced garlic and one small can of chopped green chilies. Remove from the heat when vegetables begin to soften. Then salt and pepper to taste and add one cup of diced Monterey jack cheese and one-half cup of unflavored bread crumbs. Microwave or cook two links of chorizo or Italian sausage, drain off fat, chop into small pieces and add to the mixture. Allow the mixture to cool in the refrigerator.
4. When the stuffing is cool, portion it evenly on the flattened pork tenderloin and roll them up, securing with butcher’s string or toothpicks. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and roast the pork rollups in a covered pan for about 35 minutes. Remove the meat and deglaze the roasting pan with a half cup of red wine, and then spoon over the sliced tenderloin rolls. Serve the meat with spicy rice or garlic mashed potatoes.

You’re going to need a fairly full-bodied red wine to accompany this dish. Here are some that I would consider: 2004 Infinitus Tempranillo (inky-purple and rich from the Jumilla region of Spain - $14); 2004 Marietta Old Vines Zinfandel (the big brother to Marietta Old Vines Red - $17); 2002 Allegrini Palazzo Della Torre Valpolicella (not your usual lighter-styled Valpolicella – this one is full and rich - $20); and 2002 d’Arenberg Laughing Magpie (this Australian Shiraz-Viognier blend is a spicy mouth-full - $22).

Enjoy!

In this Wild and Wonderful wine backwater, I am hailed by many of my friends (?) as THE West Virginia wino. So it always comes as a shock when folks consider me an expert. This aversion to any type of recognition is probably the result of my Catholic school education, where guilt was the only attribute held in higher esteem than humility. Anyway, several years ago I was introduced, by the overly exuberant host at a wine dinner, as a connoisseur and a gourmet. After smiling uncomfortably and bumbling through the event, I quickly excused myself and rushed to the nearest dictionary to find out just how those terms are defined by Mr. Webster. Webster's New World Dictionary defines connoisseur as "one who has expert knowledge and keen discrimination, especially in the fine arts." A gourmet is described as "one who likes and is an excellent judge of fine foods and drinks." In looking up 'gourmet,' I spotted the word 'gourmand' right above it in the dictionary and quickly decided that term more accurately describes my approach to eating and drinking.

A gourmand is defined as...

"one who enjoys good food and wine, often to excess." I suppose a gourmet might take a bite food or a sip of wine and then render a critical opinion. A gourmand, on the other hand, would salivate at the very sight of food and drink, and would wolf down great quantities of the fare, declaring his or her satisfaction with the experience by issuing a resounding belch. A gourmet is discriminating and exhibits exemplary self-control while a gourmand will eat and drink everything in sight and ask for more.

Even though I may be rationalizing, I'm still not comfortable with accepting that label to describe my approach to wine and food. If I am neither a gourmet nor gourmand, then the 'connoisseur' moniker misses the mark completely. Having keen discrimination in the fine arts is not one of my strong suits. The only artist I know does sidewalk murals in wine and chalk under the South Side Bridge. Stained glass - isn’t that what happens to your fine crystal if you let wine stand in it overnight? Just a few years ago, someone spending as much time as I do tasting and then writing about wine and food would have been labeled a hedonist or even a dipsomaniac. So, I guess I should be pleased someone described me in more flattering terms. But I'm not! The late Justin Wilson, noted Creole and Cajun cook, had some of the best advice on matching food and wine, and on the snobbery sometimes associated with the endeavor. As you may know, Wilson had a long-standing cooking show on PBS, and he used a thick Cajun accent to spice up his recipes and his stories. After sitting down to sample the lamb dish he had just prepared, Wilson grabbed a big jug, poured himself a glass of white wine and proclaimed: "You all probably wonderin' why I'm drinkin' white wine wit’ ‘dis here lamb. You ‘tink ‘dis lamb care what color ‘da wine is? If it don't matter to ‘da lamb, I s'pose it's up to me to drink what I want." Well then, I s'pose it's up to me to decide too. I’m not comfortable with gourmet, connoisseur or gourmand so I guess I’ll need to find a new term to describe my affliction. How about gourmanseur? Frankly, you can all me whatever you want. Just don't call me late for good food and wine!

Wine Recommendation: 2005 L’Ecole 41 Columbia Valley Semillon ( $18 ) This delicious, food-friendly Washington-state wine is comprised of 86% Semillon and 14% Sauvignon Blanc. On the nose, the wine has a slate-mineral quality with just a hint of vanilla. In the mouth, the flavors of melon, apricot and citrus are overlain with a creamy texture. I matched this wine with sea scallops wrapped in lean bacon and sautéed in a little butter and about two ounces of the above-mentioned wine. Terrific!

Banfi Chianti Classico Riserva is one full-bodied red wine that won't be butted out when served with the dish described below. With the last vestiges of winter quickly retreating, you still have some time to prepare meals that require full-bodied red wines and hearty appetites. Of course, you have many choices, but today I’ll give you a recipe for one of my all-time favorite cold-weather dishes. Ironically, as I write this, the sun is shining, flowers are beginning to pop out of the ground and the temperatures are in the mid 60’s. Oh well, you can always grill the sucker!

Remember the obnoxiously salacious dance a couple of decades back called “The Butt?” Well, I call this meal “Doin’ the Butt!” since the main ingredient is pork shoulder which is incongruously called the butt. This humble piece of pig meat is used to make sausages of all types as well as that American culinary staple – barbecue. Today, I’m going to share a recipe with you which involves brining and slow roasting a pork butt so that the meat literally falls off the bone You may wonder why I suggest taking the extra step of brining the meat. Well, brining not only moistens and tenderizes the meat, it also adds wonderful flavors throughout the entire roast...

1. First thing you’ll need to do is to buy a four- to six-pound pork butt with the bone in. These are usually pretty plentiful around this time of year and you may find them on sale for around $1.50 to $2 a pound. For the brine, you’ll need to combine one-half cup each of kosher salt and brown sugar, one bottle of dark beer, and three quarts of cold water in a large bowl. You may also use half a bottle of leftover wine (does anyone ever have any leftover?) or even apple juice or cider in place of the beer. Stir until the mixture is dissolved, and then either place the butt in the bowl or transfer to a gallon plastic bag. In either case the roast should be covered and allowed to absorb the brine for three hours.

2. After brining, pat the roast dry and rub all over with a combination of one tablespoon each of coarsely ground black pepper and chopped garlic, along with one teaspoon of freshly chopped rosemary. While yours truly is not deterred by cold temperatures and therefore would suggest using your outside grill, most of you will probably prefer to use an indoor oven. You can place the roast in an oven bag or a covered roasting pan and cook at 250 degrees for about five hours. If you decide to use your outside grill, cook the roast at a low temperature for about the same amount of time. If you’re using charcoal, keep the grill air vents only slightly open and cook it indirectly in a foil pan so you can baste the drippings. You will need to replenish the fire with a few charcoal briquettes from time to time and grill for about four hours.

3. I prefer to accompany this dish with a potato and onion casserole. Thinly slice six medium sized Yukon Gold potatoes along with two large onions and combine in a casserole dish with one-half cup of extra virgin olive oil. To this add a tablespoon of coarsely ground black pepper, a tablespoon of kosher salt and one cup of grated parmesan cheese. Cover the dish and bake for about 75 minutes in a 375 degrees oven. WINE PAIRINGS: There are myriad red wines that are just dying to “do the butt” with this dish, and here are some suggestions for your sipping pleasure: Banfi Chianti Classico Riserva ($20); The Stump Jump ($13 - Aussie blend of Shiraz, Mourvedre and Grenache); 2005 El Portillo Malbec ($11); and the 2003 Bogle Petite Sirah ($12).

Maturity is certainly not one of WineBoy's personal attributes. But in episode 11 of John Brown's weekly wine webshow with attitude -- click here to watch -- he'll demonstrate the proper manner to evaluate and serve mature wines. Be sure to catch this latest webcast of Brown's part educational, part zany weekly four-minute show featuring his unique approach to all things wine. You'll want to pay particular attention to the advice of special guest and Wine Astrologist, the Marchrazi Umberto Lupini.

Among the many full-bodied red wines that can nicely enhance foods such as beef stew, gumbo, chili, roasted meats and pastas, my favorite is Zinfandel. I’m talking seriously purple Zin -- not the pink stuff that makes Aunt Lavinia feel like she’s a clever conversationalist. This is wine that will leave an indelible stain on your table cloth, and a lasting impression on your palate.
Sadly, Zinfandel is the Rodney Dangerfield of red wines. Why? Everyone enjoys it, but very few people want to take it home to dinner! In addition to getting no respect, the truth is Zinfandel has an identity problem. In fact, it has multiple identities. (Are you listening, Dr. Freud?)


The grape is so versatile that winemakers produce it in a variety of styles. From white to blush, from lighter-styled to medium -bodied, and from full-throttle to purple monster, zinfandel can be a confusing wine to buy. And therein lies the problem.Everything about the grape is mysterious and confusing - even its origin.
Zinfandel is commonly referred to as “America’s grape” even though its original home has been the subject of some heated debate. Zinfandel vine cuttings were brought to California in the 1850s and the first plantings were made in Sonoma County near the town of Sonoma. While everyone agrees that Zinfandel belongs to a European classification of grapes known as vitis vinifera, experts have argued over the country of origin. Some contend that Zinfandel is really a grape variety known as Primitivo from southern Italy. The most recent research into the DNA of Zinfandel indicates, however, that the grape is Crljenak (I’ll give you one of my coveted old Zinfandels if you can pronounce this) and is actually from Croatia.
Regardless of its origin, everyone accepts the fact that California is where the grape has been planted and where it has flourished. Unfortunately, in the hierarchy of winedom, Zinfandel has always been disrespected, particularly when it is compared to Cabernet Sauvignon or other red varietals such as Pinot Noir, Merlot or even Syrah. While I always resist comparisons of grapes which are dissimilar in flavor and texture, it is my opinion that the best Zinfandel being made today is qualitatively equal to the best California Cabernet being produced. And, despite what some wine experts contend, the stuff can age gracefully, too. I opened a 1981 Sutter Home Amador County Zinfandel recently and was amazed by the complexity of the wine, which exhibited teaberry mint aromas and rich, chocolate flavors.
One important benefit of Zinfandel’s Rodney Dangerfield reputation is that you can still find a superb wine for under $20. So how do you know which Zin to pick for tonight’s dinner? Well, the wine does share some general characteristics (such as dark berry, spicy, briary and peppery flavors) that cross all stylistic permutations. However, the easiest way to pick the right Zin is to categorize the wine according to its weight and intensity of flavor. Below are some of my favorite Zinfandels rated by intensity and weight and some matching food suggestions. Incidentally, these wines range in price from about $10 to no more than $30 a bottle.
LIGHTER-STYLED WINES: Peachy Canyon Incredible Red; Red Truck; Marietta Old Vines Red; Bogle; and Ravenswood Vintner’s Blend. Try these with pizza, grilled hamburgers or meatloaf.
MEDIUM-BODIED WINES: Rancho Zabaco Heritage Vines; Sebastiani Sonoma; Seghesio Old Vines; Dry Creek Vineyards; Ridge Geyserville; Renwood Old Vines; Folie A Deux Amador; and Rosenblum Paso Robles. Good with roasted pork tenderloin, grilled salmon or barbecued chicken.

FULL-BODIED WINES: Ridge Lytton Springs; Renwood Grandpere; Montevina Terre D’Oro; Chateau Montelena; Grgich-Hills; Storybook Mountain Eastern Exposure; and Hartford Russian River Valley. Try these purple monsters with pasta in marinara sauce, hearty stews, grilled rack of lamb and garlic flavored and roasted meats.