Columns by John

John Brown has been a wine and food columnist in West Virginia since the 1980’s. His regular columns appear in the Charleston (WV) Gazette-Mail under the title Vines & Vittles.

Pairing wine and food

Boy have I been sipping some excellent wines this summer.  I’ve also been pairing them up with some yummy culinary treats – which is the equivalent of a gustatory double whammy!  I’ve also found that cooking the family meal is a great way to get out of yard work, and that’s reason enough for me to do my sweating in the kitchen.

I’ll be the first to admit that finding the appropriate food and wine match can be tricky. But I have acquired a lot of experience over the years, mainly through trial and error, and I’ve come up with some pairings that work for me and just might work for you too. 

Like all rules in wine appreciation, there are really no rules. In other words, if you enjoy filet mignon with Uncle Fred’s Rhubarb Red, then go for it. However, the overwhelming school of thought when it comes to finding the best food and wine pairing is to pick flavors that are complimentary. There are times, though, when it is best to find wine that has some contrasting elements  to the edibles.

And just like a good old West Virginia ward healer, I can go in either direction - depending on the circumstances, the mood or which way the wind is blowing. Okay, so here are some common sense principles to follow.

Lighter-bodied foods go best with lighter style wines while heavier flavored foods are best paired with fuller-flavored wines.  For instance, a poached white fish would go best with a lighter styled white wine such as a white Bordeaux or Albarino from Spain. Conversely, a well-marbled strip steak would be a great match with a robust red wine such as cabernet sauvignon or zinfandel.

The addition of sauces or spices to a dish can add a flavor dimension that can affect the wine you pick.  For example, sauvignon blanc is an excellent choice with poached salmon in a dill sauce, but grilled salmon that has been dusted with cumin, black pepper and chili powder needs a medium-bodied red such as pinot noir.

Textures also play a role in determining the best matches and this is where “contrasting” comes into play. Say you have a rich, fatty piece of beef, the ideal wine is probably a young tannic red, not only from a complimentary flavor standpoint, but also because the astringency of the tannin in the wine provides a contrast and serves to cleanse the palate.

To be successful in finding that perfect match, you need to consider flavor, texture and weight of the food and wine pairing. You wouldn’t logically pair a full-flavored red wine with a delicate broiled seafood dish such as Dover sole. Think about it. The flavors, textures and weight are all out of balance. Try a delicate Chablis, an Italian pinot grigio or a Washington State semillon.   

Here’s the closest to an absolute wine and food no-no: vinaigrette salad with any wine. Why? The vinegar based dressing clashes with the acid in wine destroying the flavors of both the salad and wine. Creamy or cheese dressings work fine with sauvignon blanc, riesling or viognier, but nothing works with vinaigrette. Well, maybe an inexpensive sparkler with lots of fizz. 

Try   pinot noir, Chianti, or even Beaujolais with grilled salmon, tuna or chicken. Zinfandel, rose’ and shiraz also pair wellwith spicy foods, particularly Southwestern  (US) fare. Ditto, slightly sweet gewürztraminer or riesling. Both go well with oriental dishes, especially Thai food.Roasted turkey can handle just about any dry wine, but I particularly like red Rhone wines, Alsatian pinot gris and merlot-based Bordeaux.    
As I have stated for the record many times before, chocolate desserts love cabernet sauvignon. Ices and sorbets are great with muscat and sweet sparkling wines. Try blue cheese with port and zinfandel. Sweet late harvest riesling and Sauterne with, believe it or not, liver pates are also odd couple pairings.
 I could go on and on, but there are also some other resources you can use.  Try this website “Food and Wine Pairing” at http://www.foodandwinepairing.org. 
And Natalie MacLean, creator of Nat Decants, the wine web site at www.nataliemaclean.com, has teamed up with the software developer bitHeads to create an application that works on your iPhone, iPod Touch, BlackBerry Bold and BlackBerry Curve.  

Sipping for a cause: Fourth annual Wine and Roses Event

I am a board member of the Roark-Sullivan Lifeways Center (RSLC).   This is a very special organization with a great group of dedicated employees and volunteers. The center assists individuals experiencing homelessness with services that help them become self-reliant.
For the past several years, RSLC has been hosting a fund raising event at Capitol Market called “Wine and Roses.” Wouldn’t it be great to help programs like Roark-Sullivan and enjoy good wine and gourmet food, too?
Well, you can!  Join me and other wine lovers at the fourth annual Roark-Sullivan Lifeways Center Wine and Roses event. Wine and Roses will be held indoors at the Capitol Market from 5 to 7 p.m. on Thursday, July 16. Partnering with RSLC is the Capitol Market, Soho’s, the Thomas Health System, A Travel Agent in WV and the Wine Shop at Capitol Market.  
Area wine distributors and locally owned Napa Valley winery, Falcor, are donating the wines.  And believe me, there will be exceptional wines available for your sipping pleasure from all over the world.  In addition, there will be an assortment of gourmet appetizers you can pair with the wines.   
I’ll be there to answer your wine questions and chat about the tasty treats we’re sipping. And, hey, if you find a wine you like, you can stroll right over and purchase it immediately from the nice folks at the Wine Shop.
I count myself fortunate to have the time and resources to engage my passion for good wine and food. Others in our town, state and nation are not so fortunate. Each day is a challenge for them. Many of our fellow citizens are dealing with debilitating physical, emotional and mental issues that make each day a struggle to survive. Their goal is simply to find food to eat and a place to sleep. Fortunately, there are agencies in our communities that exist solely to assist these people, many of whom are homeless.
RSLC operates the 60-bed Giltinan Center on Leon Sullivan Way (formerly the Charleston Men’s Emergency Shelter) and the 16-bed Twin Cities Center in St. Albans and provides comprehensive services such as healthcare maintenance; substance abuse and mental health assistance; outreach; and transitional and aftercare services. Last year, RSLC constructed and opened a Veterans Transitional Center adjacent to the Giltinan Center that provides services to homeless veterans.
The Roark-Sullivan Lifeways Center and other such organizations exist because of state and federal programs funded by your taxes, and through your generous personal contributions.  Please join me and raise a glass for a great cause!  
 Tickets are $30 in advance or at the door. You can call RSLC at 304-414-0109 and use your credit card or send a check to: RSLC, P.O. Box 1707, Charleston, WV, 25326.
I hope to see you there. 

Check out the wines to accompany the food at the Wild, Wonderful, Wine Weekend

I just put together the wines to go along with the culinary treats at next week’s Wild, Wonderful, Wine weekend at Canaan Valley Resort. I’ll also be recommending some wines to go with your Thanksgiving dinner celebration too.

Check them all out below and join us at Canaan by calling for reservations at 304-866-4181.

The event begins Friday, November 15 at 7 p.m. with a “taste-around reception” where more than 30 wines can be sampled with matching culinary treats from food stations featuring a wonderful selection of delicious goodies upon which to graze.

On Saturday morning, there will be a tasting featuring wines that I will suggest for Thanksgiving dinner. Immediately after the tasting, guests will be treated to a four-course wine-paired luncheon with commentary by yours truly. After lunch, folks will be free to hike, bike, nap watch football or just enjoy Mother Nature’s purple mountain majesty!

Saturday evening’s activities begin at 7 p.m. with a five-course, six wine grand gourmet dinner. The main course, which will be accompanied by two specially selected reds, will feature two portions of beef rib-eye prepared both braised and roasted.

Tasting of Wines for Thanksgiving:
Korbel Extra Dry Sparkling Wine (California); 2012 Acrobat Pinot Gris (Oregon); 2012 Paitin Arneis (Piemonte Italy); 2011 Pedroncelli Russian River Pinot Noir (California); 2011 Banfi Rosso Di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy); 2012 Blenheim Cabernet Franc (Virginia)

Saturday Lunch
Salad
Port Pear with Saga Blue Cheese, Chardonnay, Blanched Walnuts & Baby greens
2011 Dreaming Tree Chardonnay

First Entree
Bread Crusted Sea bass with a Lemon Shallot Butter
2010 St. Supery Virtu (semillon and sauvignon blend)

Second Entree
Pork Caprese with Red pepper Corn Fritters and a Sweet Potato Puree.
2009 Falcor Sangiovese
Dessert
Chocolate Ganache Cake with Banana Foster and Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
Rondeau Bugey Cerdon Sparkling Rose

Saturday Dinner
First Appetizer
Smoked Salmon Smorrebrod
2012 Medlock Ames Sauvignon Blanc

Soup
Cream of White Asparagus & Butternut Squash
2011 Flowers Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

Second Appetizer
Bacon Wrapped Seared Duck
2010 Domaine Serene Yamhill Cuvee Pinot Noir

Lemon Sorbet

Entrée
Duet of Roasted and Braised Beef Rib Eye
2007 St. Supery Cabernet Sauvignon & 2010 Ch. Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon

Dessert
Chocolate Fabergé Egg
2010 St. Hillaire Blanquette de Limoux Sparkling Wine

WV restaurants wine Wine Spectator awards

We all have our favorite restaurants around the state and even beyond the borders of this land of “purple mountain majesty.”  Good food should be accompanied by good wine and those eateries that understand this rudimentary principle should be recognized.  It’s one thing for this back-water wino to say nice things about a grubbery, but when a prestigious international magazine does…well that, to use the local vernacular, is “spay-chull.”

Therefore, wine lovers and foodies in our state should know that the annual Wine Spectator restaurant awards were just announced and the Mountain State has 13 establishments that received honors.  

According to the magazine, “Wine Spectator’s restaurant wine list awards program recognizes restaurants whose wine lists offer interesting selections, are appropriate to the cuisine and appeal to a wide range of wine lovers.  To qualify for an award, the list must present complete, accurate wine information. It must include vintages and appellations for all selections, including wines by the glass…”

The three categories of awards are:  “Awards of Excellence”; “Best of Awards of Excellence”; and the “Grand Award. “  Nearly 3000 restaurants across world have received the “Award of Excellence,” including eleven restaurants in WV.  Two WV restaurants, the Bavarian Inn and the Greenbrier’s Main Dining Room, received “Best of Awards of Excellence” and that’s quite an honor since only 800 restaurants achieved that distinction.   Only 72 restaurants around the world received the highest honor and none were in West By-god  -- yet.

The state restaurants receiving “Awards of Excellence are:  Bridge Road Bistro, Charleston; The Chop House, Charleston; Ember,  Snowshoe Mountain Resort ; The Glasshouse Grille, Morgantown; La Bonne Vie, Chester (at Mountaineer Racetrack); Provence Market Café, Bridgeport;  Sam Snead’s, While Sulpher  Springs (The Greenbrier); Sargasso, Morgantown;  Savannah's, Huntington; Soho’s, Charleston; and Spats, Parkersburg (in the Blennerhassett Hotel).

I think we should all support these restaurants and encourage others within our grazing range to strive for this honor.  I know there are many fine restaurants that are very close to achieving this award and many others that could add a few selections to their existing list and get within striking range.

Another Charleston restaurant that deserves credit for not only presenting delicious cuisine, but for taking their wine lists seriously is the South Hills Market and Café.  

The South Hills Market and Café, owned by Richard and Anne Arbaugh, features a superb and eclectic menu of continental, low-country and new American delicacies in a visually stunning presentation. The food tastes good too! Actually, Richard is quite an accomplished chef with tours of duty at The Homestead as well as the Bridge Road Bistro. 

The wine list is very well constructed with an array of international wines that are reasonably priced.  The restaurant has added a “happy hour” from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday along with a new appetizer menu. You’ll need to call for dinner reservations (305-345-2585).

Wine Recommendation: 

2007 Vu Ja De Syrah ($18);  A dyslectic take on dejavu, this wine with a WV connection and Napa Valley lineage, is a wonderful mouthful of blueberries, chocolate and coffee.  The guys that run this operation have planted grapes in Roane County and are using their Napa Valley connections to bring us wine until their vineyards are mature enough to produce WV fruit. In the meantime, ask for this wine or try their cabernet ($16).  It is also a nice wine at a reasonable price. 

Stuffed poblanos with quinoa and chorizo: A Zinful meal

      I’ll admit it, I am consumed each day by lengthy ruminations over what I’m going to eat and drink.  Conversations with my long-suffering spouse almost always involve planning the evening meal and sometimes precipitate disputes that are usually amicably, but sometimes loudly, settled. Then one or both of us will venture out to search for the freshest ingredients and the wine to accompany the agreed upon meal. These almost daily forays inevitably lead to the farmer’s stands at Capitol Market to peruse and then purchase the just picked veggies that are so appealingly displayed.      Like many of my contemporaries, I am trying to eat a healthier diet in the hope that doing so will undue decades of abuse ladled into my arterial system by the constant ingestion of the three most important central Appalachian food groups: lard, red meat and fried potatoes. Therefore, recently I went in search of poblano peppers that would be the centerpiece of a (almost) vegetarian meal.  Poblanos, when dried as they often are, become ancho peppers and are sometimes ground to make chili powder. Anchos can also be re-hydrated and used in sauces.  I found the  poblanos at the Purple Onion inside Capitol Market and, while they  do have a slight measure of heat, they are nowhere near the potency of a jalapeno.      So today, I’m  going to tell you about  a one-course meal that is guaranteed to spice up your day and in a very healthy way. And when you accompany this meal with one of the  juicy zinfandels  I’m going to suggest, you’ll have the perfect summer time repast. You’ll need one large poblano for each adult you’re serving.  For purposes of this recipe, we’ll use the stuffing for two peppers.      Stuffed Poblanos , Quinoa with (or without ) Chorizo.  Okay, here goes.

Shopping list: - Two large poblanos - One clove garlic diced - One quarter medium onion diced - One-quarter cup finely chopped cilantro - Four ounces Monterey jack cheese - One- quarter pound ground chorizo sausage(optional) - Two ounces of vegetable oil - One-half cup quinoa or brown rice - Salt and pepper to taste      For those of you unfamiliar with quinoa  (pronounced keen-wah), it is supposedly the perfect food. It fluffs up like rice and is gluten free with a protein content of 12%. It can also be used as a substitute for pasta and white rice and is very low in carbohydrates.  It tastes good too. If you can’t find it (The Purple Onion usually stocks it), use brown rice as a low-carb substitute or just use white rice if you wish. Preparation: 1. Place poblanos  directly  on the stove top  and char the skin, turning often until most of the surface of the pepper is charred. 2. Place the peppers in a paper or plastic bag for about 20 minutes, remove and peel the skin 3. With a small, sharp knife, cut a slit in top of the pepper large enough to spoon in the   stuffing. 4. Dice the garlic, chop the onion and cilantro and sauté in two ounces of vegetable oil until the veggies are translucent. 5. Sauté’ the chorizo and drain off the fat 6. Combine the quinoa, vegetables, chorizo and shredded cheese in a bowl and allow to cool. 7. When cool, add one egg to the mixture and stir, then stuff the peppers  and add more cheese to the top of each pepper. 8. Place on aluminum foil and on an oven pan and heat through for 30 minutes at 325  degrees (F).

Wine Recommendations:      Spicy, juicy red zinfandel is the perfect accompaniment to this meal.  Try the 2006 Wild Hog Zinfandel ($25) or the 2007 Castle Rock Mendocino Zinfandel ($14 ).  While both have the requisite blackberry juiciness and spice component in spades, the Wild Hog is a fuller-bodied version of Zin while the Castle Rock shows more acidity and is a little less in your face.