In this depressing economy, where certain staples of existence such as food, fuel and shelter have all become more affordable, I have not yet seen a comparable drop in the price of wine. 

Oh, believe me, I am out searching the hinterlands each day for affordable sippers so you and I can continue to enjoy a glass of wine with our mac &cheese at the end of the work day.  But it’s not easy.

In ruminating about ways of economizing the wine budget, I’ve decided to suggest  several wine categories  for you to explore (according to price) in the hope  you’ll be able to find a wine to suit your palate and wallet too. So, here goes.

Vino Jigundo

First (and perhaps least appealing) would be to search the jugs, boxes and wine skins for the large volume products that are something more than colored water with the addition of grain alcohol.  I’m no snob, but most of this mass-produced plonk is,  at best, unappealing.

However, I am willing to work my way through the witch hazel to find that diamond in the rough.  If any of you out there in wine land have found any good, inexpensive, mass-produced wines, please let me hear from you (see comment section at the end of this post).

The Value Fifths

There are indeed some excellent wines in the $8 to $15 a bottle range and ,over the past couple of years, I have recommended dozens of them to you. The simple way of  finding these value wines is to go to your favorite wine shop and ask the folks there to direct you to those particular goodies.

Many of these bottles are unfamiliar to us and can hail from countries such as Spain, Austria and Portugal, but there are some lovely little ditties if you take the time to search for them. Albarino and rioja (Spain), gruner veltliner (Austria) and verdelho (Portugal) are just a few examples.

Saturday Night Second Fiddle Wines

I don’t know about you, but I consume  wine almost every night. However, I distinguish between weekday bottles  and “Saturday night” wines (which I sometimes have on Friday and/or even Sunday). Saturday night wines can be expensive – which means anything over $20 a bottle to this parsimonious wino.  Unfortunately, it is sometimes very difficult to find a reasonably priced Saturday night wine unless you go to the “second fiddle” stuff.

Simply put, second fiddle refers to those wines owned and produced by a more famous winery, and bottled under a second (different) label. These wines sell at a significantly more reasonable price and many times are made from the same grapes that produce the more famous label.  Other times, these second label wines can be made from grapes that are from a younger parcel of the same vineyard used to make the parent label.   

Here are some examples of some second label wines.  Alamos is the second label of  Catena (from
Argentina) and the chardonnay and cabernet produced is excellent and less than half the price of the more famous label.  Hawk’s Crest is Stag Leap’s second label, while Logan is Talbott’s and Gavilan is the second wine of Chalone – just to name a few.

If you really want to splurge on Saturday night, you might want to check out the second fiddle
Bordeaux from the following famous reds :

Ch. Gruaud-Larose - Sarget de Gruaud-Larose
Ch. Lafite Rotschild - Moulin des Carruades
Ch. Talbot-  Connetable Talbot
Ch. Pichon-Longueville-Lalande-  Reserve de la Comtesse
Ch. Haut-Brion -  Ch. Bahans-Haut-Brion
Ch. Lynch Bages- Haut-Bages-Averous
Ch. Latour -  Les Forts-de-Latour
Ch. Cos d'Estournel -  Marbuzet
Ch. Margaux - Pavillon Rouge de Chateau Margaux

The Red-Haired Step Child

Famous wines from equally famous wine regions are priced at stratospheric levels and so, in order to sample the region’s goodies, I often  invoke the red-haired step child rule. For example,  I really do love the wines of Piedmont in northern Italy, but I don’t want to pay $80 to $200 a bottle to drink the world class Barolo and Barberesco produced there. Instead, I’ll buy an $18 bottle of Barbera or a $15 Spanna (which is actually made from the same grape – nebbiolo -  that produces Barolo or Barbaresco) or even a Dolcetto in all its frothy glory.

Instead of Chateauneuf du Pape or Hermitage, I’ll opt for Gigondas or the wines of Vaucluse, both of which are made from the same blend of grapes that produce the more famous wines of the Rhone region. In California, where cabernet and chardonnay are king and queen  respectively,  I will sip zinfandel, pinot blanc or even  that scourge of the movie “Sideways” – merlot. 

So do not despair and don’t even contemplate abstinence. Times may be tough, but there are many reasonably priced and tasty wines to see us through.

Beaujolais Nouveau is a fun wine full of fresh strawberry fruit flavors (it’s only about two months old when it arrives) that is more a celebration than an exercise in fine wine drinking.  Most Nouveau is relatively inexpensive (around $10 to $15 a bottle) and is meant to be drunk within the year after bottling. 

In the last decade or so, importers have gotten Nouveau to the US within a day or two of its release in France, and so now we Americans also celebrate the “new” wine. In fact, a few local wine shops have Beaujolais Nouveau “barrel” tastings each November.

Today I’ll tell you about the other Beaujolais wines that, while less known, are considered far superior to Nouveau. Don’t get me wrong. I really do enjoy Beaujolais Nouveau in all its frothy, fruity glory. However, I think most folks don’t realize there are also some serious wines being made in this region just to the south of Burgundy.

Beaujolais is produced from a grape called gamay. Gamay is a lighter pigmented red grape that, when allowed to soak for extended periods on its skins, can produce a medium and, in some rare instances, full bodied wine.

Beaujolais lies just south of the Macon region of Burgundy. From there, it descends south along a 34-mile stretch of rolling hills and ends near the famous Rhone wine region of Cote Rotie.  In addition to Beaujolais Nouveau, you will see wines labeled Beaujolais, Beaujolais Superior or Beaujolais Villages and these can be decent to very good wines. While I do enjoy these wines, the best of Beaujolais are much more serious wines and some can actually improve with bottle age for up to ten years. 

The best wines of the Beaujolais region are known as Cru (which means “growths” in French).  Crus are named after the villages around which the grapes are grown.  There are ten Cru Beaujolais. You may see a wine labeled Morgon (the name of a Cru village) in large type with the year and producer (i.e., “Georges Duboeuf”) in smaller type.

The ten Cru Beaujolais are:  Brouilly, Chenas, Chiroubles, Cote de Brouilly, Fleurie, Julienas, Morgon, Moulin-a-Vent, Regnie and Saint Amour. Each of these Crus produces distinctly different Beaujolais from very light and delicate (i.e., Chiroubles and Fleurie) to fuller-bodied wines (i.e., Moulin a Vent and Morgon).

Like Burgundy, it is very important to select your Beaujolais from reputable producers and shippers. Among the most prominent of these are:  Joseph Drouhin, Duboeuf, Louis Jadot, Louis Latour, Prosper Maufoux, Bouchard Pere et Fils and St. Vincent. Unlike Burgundy, Cru Beaujolais is reasonable priced ($15-$30 a bottle).   

In matching the wine to food, I suggest you use the Crus Beaujolais like you would a light to medium-bodied pinot noir.  The beauty of the wine the gamay grape produces to me is its deep floral qualities and cherry, berry flavors. I particularly like to pair a good Moulin a Vent with roast tenderloin of pork.

Lately, I seem to be on a white wine tear.  Maybe it’s because I feel that sipping a nice, refreshing white will hasten the approach of spring, or maybe I’m just tired of the plethora of ponderous reds I’ve been drinking lately. Whatever the reason, I have had the delightful experience of tasting more than a few excellent whites recently, and that’s put a smile on this haggard face.

My brother-in-law (let’s just call him Uncle Bunk)  is a really good guy. I say this with conviction and affection because, in addition to his winning personality, good humor and great character (and believe me he is a great character), he occasionally surprises me with gifts of wine.  And I ask you:  what better measure of character is there?  Anyway, several years ago Uncle Bunk presented me with bottle of wine that, to this day, remains one of my “go to” reds when I need something I can count on to compliment the full flavored or heavily seasoned foods that regularly grace the table in my home. Some of you who have read my vinous tomes over the years know of my fondness for full-flavored purple zins. However, you might be surprised to find out zinfandel is not the wine to which I refer.   No, that wine would be Valpolicella!  Valpolicella? you ask incredulously.  Yes, but not just any Valpolicella.  I’m talking about Valpolicella on steroids and made in the ripasso (or ripassa) method.   Valpolicella is located in northeastern Italy’s Veneto region and has, along with its neighbor Soave, gotten very little respect from the wine cognicenti. In recent years, that has changed and now both regions have begun to produce some exceptional wines. And while we’re talking today about Valpolicella, you might try the Gini Soave Classico ($17), a round and rich white that is nicely balanced and would make a great accompaniment to baked flounder stuffed with lump crabmeat. But I digress.    Valpolicella is made from corvina, rondinalla and molinara  grapes, all of which produce light to medium-bodied red wines that can be very pleasant quaffs.  Valpolicella becomes something more, though, when a process called ripasso  is employed during the wine making process. First though, it is necessary to tell you about Amarone which is like ripasso's bigger brother.

Amarone is produced from the same Valpolicella blend, but instead of taking the grapes from the vineyard to the crusher, the little buggers are put in buildings and on trays and allowed to shrivel up and dry out like raisins.This exercise increases the sugar content so that the resulting wine is a powerful, dark and very alcoholic brute that is then aged in wood for a couple of years before it is bottled.  Amarone usually costs between $50 and $100 and is one of the most unique wines I’ve ever tasted. To make a ripasso, new Valpolicella wine is refermented by combining it with the pressings or pomace from the Amarone, and sometimes with the addition of dried grapes. The resulting ripasso wine is considerably darker and fuller bodied than Valpolicella, but not as powerful as Amarone. The ripasso process was invented in the early 1960’s by the well-respected Valpolicella producer Masi. Their ripasso is called Campofiorin and is still among my favorites. So how was I introduced to this lovely elixir? Well, it turns out that Uncle Bunk – who is quite the world traveler and bon vivant – took his lovely bride to Verona to visit the apocryphal home where Romeo met Juliet.As luck would have it, the Bunkster’s amorous advances later that evening were not repelled, due in large measure to the quantity of ripasso consumed by the love birds. I’m grateful for Romeo, er…Uncle Bunk’s night of ecstasy in Verona because it  prompted him to present me with a bottle of Allegrini Pallazo Della Torre on his return from Italy.  To this day, I find it difficult to pass up the latest vintage of ripasso. The wines are just shy of the intensity of zinfandel, with ripe, dark plum and blackberry flavors and with balancing acidity that makes them excellent food wines. Just this past week, I opened up a bottle of 2005 Zenato Ripassa ($22) to accompany the beef short ribs I had braised in red wine. Spectacular! In addition to Masi, Allegrini and Zenato, other ripasso producers to look for are Bertani, Tommasi, Farina, Righetti and Mazzi.  You should be able to find some of these wines around the state and, if not, you should ask your wine shop to order them.  Most are priced between $15 and $25 a bottle.   

My good friend Rich Ireland , author of the eminently informative “Beers To You”  blog,  is a passionate proponent of all aspects of the stuff of which he writes.   Not satisfied  that he has almost single-handedly improved the number, quality and  availability of craft beers in the state, he also insists that we (and those who serve us) observe proper suds etiquette.  

In fact, his recent blog taking to task one of my favorite area  restaurateurs  for having the audacity  to serve beer in an iced tea glass got me thinking.  I should probably be more observant and critical regarding  the myriad wine-related faux pas committed each day by well-intentioned, but under- educated, wine lovers.

However, I must admit, when it comes to following rules of etiquette, I am a swine.  Just ask my wife.  In my rush to experience the sensory pleasures of certain liquids, I sometimes take shortcuts that might be as egregious a sin as eating with my bare hands. But, as someone who has served time in Catholic school, I am a great believer in redemption.

 So, from now on, I hereby give fair warning that I will be on the lookout for those of you in my line of sight who do not observe the rules (see below) of proper wine etiquette.

Rule #1 – Never drink from a wine skin that is made from the following animals:  anacondas; skunks; wombats; flying squirrels (still on endangered list); frogs; coyotes; muskrats; aardvarks; ring-tailed lemurs; porcupines; llamas; or hyenas. The best wine skins are still made from mature sheep by celibate shepherds.

Rule #2 – Only swirl wine in the proper direction – time depends on this! It is absolutely essential for people in the northern hemisphere to swirl wine in a counter-clockwise direction while those living south of the equator swirl in a clockwise fashion.  If everyone swirled in the same direction, time would either go faster or slow down. This does happen occasionally which accounts for why so many people experience déjà-vu while others seem to be getting ahead of themselves.

Rule #3 – Snorting wine is not yet approved by the American Oenophile Association - so don’t do it in public.  I’ve noticed more and more folks in restaurants who have taken to snorting instead of sipping wine. While this can certainly be therapeutic for those with sinus problems, I still feel sipping is a better way to evaluate wine –though I’m willing to be convinced otherwise.     

Rule #4 – Inappropriate cork behavior.  Corks should only be used for their intended purpose. Once a cork is pulled from a bottle and presented to you by the sommelier, it should be treated with respect. It can be sniffed, but should almost never be eaten.  And  please refrain from charring the  end of the cork to paint a moustache on your tablemate.    How appalling!

Rule #5 – Please do not drink from the dump bucket at formal wine tastings.  I know…. the protagonist in “Sideways” did this at a tasting room in the Santa Rita Hills.  But real life is not a movie!! While it is acceptable wine etiquette to spit, rather than swallow wine at a tasting, it is not appropriate (nor sanitary) to pour yourself a glass of wine from the dump bucket (unless the tasting is of First Growth Bordeaux).      

So Rich, I hope this demonstrates that I can be a stickler for, and enforcer of, all the wine rules. As a matter of fact, I suggest we meet down at the Southside Bridge and toast each other with a wine skin full of  spoody-oody! For those of you unfamiliar with this tasty treat, a spoody-oody is comprised of equal parts of  beer and wine and is best consumed under a full moon.