When I was growing up, one of our faithful family traditions involved enthusiastic discourse around the holiday dinner table. To the rare outsiders who were infrequently invited to our large family repasts, the decibel level of this “enthusiasm” must have been a bit disconcerting.  No subject was too grand, obscure or off limits. We would debate everything from presidential elections to the color of Aunt Agnes’ moustache, and those who prevailed usually did so through din rather than  eloquence.  So, in keeping with family tradition, my brother and I have debated for decades the best wines to pair with Thanksgiving dinner. After exhaustive and sometimes heated discussions, we have come to the conclusion that almost every wine can marry nicely with some part of the Turkey Day meal.   Why? Listen up.  For years, I have written about the culinary versatility of turkey to be successfully paired with white or red, as well as light or full-bodied wines. The reason is this bird is blessed with meat that has different flavors, colors and textures. Add to this the way it is cooked - from traditional oven-baking, to deep frying, to grilling, to smoking (with hardwood such as apple)  - and you have even more wine choices from which to select. When you add stuffing to the turkey, you add a whole other flavor dimension which, depending upon the nature of the dressing, opens up even more wine possibilities. One year, for example, I stuffed a charcoal grilled turkey with cornbread, ancho chili peppers and chorizo sausage. What wine, you might ask, did I serve with this non-traditional turkey and stuffing?   Well, I started with Domaine Carneros sparkling wine as an aperitif. I proceeded to open a bottle of Pierre Sparr Pinot Gris for those who preferred white wine,  and a Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel for those who wanted a big red. And guess what? It worked. For dessert, I chose a bottle of Joseph Phelps Late Harvest riesling to accompany the  pumpkin pie, and then plopped on the couch to watch some team beat up on the Detroit Lions. Here are a few wine-pairing suggestions, based upon cooking methods, for your Thanksgiving Day:  The traditional oven-roasted turkey with a mild dressing is very nicely accompanied by whites such as pinot grigo, sauvignon blanc or chardonnay, or reds such as pinot noir, chianti classico, or sangiovese. Older wines such as Bordeaux or California cabernet sauvignon go nicely as well. On the other hand, if you smoke or grill your bird, try full-bodied zinfandel, shiraz, Chateauneuf Du Pape or even Amarone.      So what about my approach this year? Well, I plan to stuff  the critter with bread dressing flavored with Italian sausage, chestnuts, onion and celery,  then bake it in the oven.  With this traditional meal, I’ll start with a bottle of Vigna Dogarina Extra Dry Prosecco ($23, at right) for the aperitif, followed by 2007 Baron Fini Pinot Grigio ($14) as well as 2005 Falcor Sangiovese ($35) (which will both be poured with the main course). For dessert with pumpkin pie,  I’ll be blowing my diet with a taste of 2004 Arrowood Late Harvest Riesling ($24).   Since Aunt Agnes shaved her moustache, the only thing left to decide is the subject of the family holiday dinner debate.   Bon Apetit!              

Odd n’ ends… As you know, each year around the 15th of November, the first wine of the 2008 vintage from the Beaujolais region in France is released to the public with great fanfare and celebration.That’s right, Beaujolais Nouveau time is upon us and this year’s wine is very good.

In terms of drinkability, Beaujolais Nouveau can be a lively, frothy, strawberry fruit- forward mouthful of wine.  At its best, the wine is a pleasant quaffer that is never meant to be taken too seriously, but rather to be enjoyed and celebrated. Even when the wine is ordinary, it’s still something I look forward to each year.

In cafes and wine shops all around the world, people are buying  Beaujolais Nouveau to toast the new vintage year and to prepare their palates (and wallets)  for the holiday wine-buying season to come. More...If you haven’t yet sipped the 2008 Beaujolais Nouveau, I recommend the Georges Duboeuf ($14). With a mouth-tingling frothiness and aromas of strawberries, this is a very tasty wine that will match up well with an assortment of mild cheeses or a frittata of eggs, Italian sausage and red and green peppers.

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Wine and beef lovers should take a trip over to Huntington and sample the goodies at Frankie D’s Italian Chop House. Frankie D’s specializes in using “choice” beef and serves up reasonably priced dishes of you favorite cuts of red meat.  The menu also includes seafood and pasta, along with a martini bar and an extensive wine list.

The wine list boasts a fairly comprehensive selection of cabernet sauvignon with a price to meet just about every pocket book. On my visit, we paired the wines of Vigna Dogarina from the Veneto region of northern Italy with a four course meal highlighted by a delicious crabmeat- topped eight ounce filet.

Accompanying this dish was the 2004 Vigna Dogarina Decano ($24 retail price). This wine is a blend of 55% cabernet and 45% merlot, and fills the glass with chocolate and mint aromas. In the mouth it is silky, round and rich with flavors of black cherry and anise.

Give Frankie D’s a try. It’s located in Pullman Square. You might call ahead (304-781-3022) for reservations.

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Hat’s off to Kroger for the renewed emphasis the company is placing on wine. The store at Ashton Place has completely rearranged and relocated the wine department and has hired Lisa Cicconi to manage the operation. Lisa is a long-time wine lover who is also a knowledgeable wine enthusiast. Look her up the next time you’re shopping at Ashton Place.

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Three reds to try: 2004 Wild Oak Cabernet Sauvignon ($27) – This is a finely structured cabernet from St. Francis winery, and is a blend of several Sonoma County appellations and integrates merlot and petit verdot into the finished product. Approachable now, this wine should improve for another five to seven years. Grill a T-bone with this baby.

2004 Rivola Sardon De Duero ($18) - Rich, ruby red blend of tempranillo and cabernet, this Spanish wine has understated aromas of vanilla and plums with flavors of dark fruit and spice. Try it with pork tenderloin rubbed with olive oil, garlic and black pepper and roasted in a bath of wine.

2005 Sebastiani Alexander Valley Cabernet ($30) -   One of my favorite all-time wineries, Sebastiani produced an elegant wine from the Alexander Valley of Sonoma County. This wine, like other Alexander Valley cabernets such as Jordan and Chalk Hill and Silver Oak, have the appellation’s smooth tannins along with earthy, spicy black currant flavors. A holiday season beef rib roast would be the perfect match with this wine.

Cabernet sauvignon lovers rejoice! Wines from the extraordinary 2007 California vintage are beginning to make their way to a retail store near you, and you would be wise to grab as many as you can afford. While the vintage as  a whole is exceptional with just about every red and white benefitting from an almost perfect growing season,  the cabernet is stunning.

2007 is being hailed as the vintage of the century – which probably isn’t saying much since we’re only a decade into the new millennium. However, your humble wineboy has sampled a pretty good cross-section of these goodies, and I can honestly say that none of the more than two dozen different 2007’s that have passed these wine-stained lips have disappointed.

The Wine Spectator (Nov. 15 issue) sampled more than 500 cabernets from the 2007 vintage and rated nearly 200 of them with scores of 90 or above  (on a 100 point scale). And, while Napa is still the appellation to find the best of the best, every major wine producing region in the Golden State has produced exceptional cabernet sauvignon.

The wines have all of the flavors associated with great cabernet including rich plumb and cherry fruit, vanilla and mocha tones along with aromas of spice, currants and leather. These are classic wines and most have exceptional aging potential.

While you can spend several hundred dollars (a bottle!) on cult wines such as Harlan Estate, Schrader Cellars, Screaming Eagle and Staglin, prices of the wines listed below range from under $20 to less than $60 a bottle. So here are some labels to look for from the 2007 California cabernet sauvignon vintage that I recommend for your sipping pleasure.

Gallo Dry Creek Frei Ranch; Sebastiani Sonoma; Rodney Strong Alexander Valley; Kunde Estate Sonoma Valley; BV Tapestry Reserve; Whitehall Lane Reserve; Joseph Phelps Napa; Franciscan; Pahlmeyer (Jason); and Merryvale. Disclaimer: Over the past decade, I must admit to drinking less cabernet sauvignon in favor of more medium-bodied reds such as pinot noir, sangiovese, grenache and tempranillo.  I also generally prefer meritage wines (those that are blends of several grape varieties) to most full-bodied single varietals like cabernet.   I just find them more complex and better matches with food.

But just about the time I think my appreciation of wine has evolved and I’ve become more sophisticated (preferring only subtle and nuanced wines to the fuller-flavored ones), I am utterly seduced and palate-slammed by the almost other worldly pleasure of sipping a big, juicy, purple cabernet. – like those from the 2007 vintage.

Go figure.

As we get closer to the holidays, I’ve become hopelessly nostalgic and, yes, even maudlin. Why? Well, suffice it to say that I yearn for the company of a certain group of friends who’ve left my immediate circle.  And while I will be surrounded by family and other friends this Christmas, I truly miss these special ones that have gone away.

Some of you may remember the WineBoy Webcast that appeared on this site last year. Alas, the show was cancelled after one glorious season.   That’s sad enough, but the loss I feel most is for those five intrepid experts who appeared with me from time to time to present their unique views on wine appreciation.

I speak, of course, of wine astrologist Marcrazi Umberto Lupini, the Right Reverend Red N. White, English nobleman and wine critic Sir Reginald Winesot Clydesdale, Frenchman Pierre N’Cest Pas (wine cynic and American wine hater) and cowboy oenophile Spud Dumplin.

More...So today, I’ll lift a glass to these unique individuals who, in the past, have provided me with inspiration, advice and, from time to time, a welcome dose of reality as I  attempted to impart a little wine information on the webcast.  Here are some special holiday wishes and my gifts to these very wise men.

To wine astrologist  Marcrazi Umberto Lupini:  May your Christmas be filled with galaxies of shooting stars, a cornucopia of moonbeams, urns of anchovies, and only the most fragrant garlands of garlic and tripe. For you Umberto, I send a special CD “The Vatican’s Greatest Hits” performed by such musical luminaries as Aldo Cella, Lucca Brazzi and Treccy Bungunga (with liner notes by Father Guido Sarducci).

To the (always) Right Reverend Red N. White:  As your preaching reaches a fever pitch this holiday season, I wish you voluminous lung capacity, hordes of cowering congregants and a bevy of beautiful women sitting in the front row (at least ones without facial hair). Your gift, Reverened, will be a Methuselah of Sparky’s Heavenly Elixer and Altar Wine along with 200 new reptile boxes to fit under the pews.

To Sir Reginald Winesot Clydesdale:  May your stables be always muck free, may your upper lip be always stiff and may your trademark whinny and neigh resonate thunderously through the midlands. For you, dear Reginald, I am sending one dozen designer clip-on ascots to conceal your rather prominent (but distinguished) goiter.

To Pierre N’Cest Pas:  My dear Pierre, I hope your holidays are filled with flagons of wine (French, of course), long-legged Pariesan women and the songs of Pepe LePew. I’m sending you a DVD of the movie “Bottle Shock” which memorializes the 1976 Paris blind tasting where an American wine was selected by Frenchmen over a first- growth Bordeaux.  Mon Dieu!

To cowboy oenophile Spud Dumplin:  May you always ride under cloudless skies, may your wine bottles be full and corkless, and may your domestic animals always be well groomed and obedient. Spud, my friend, I am mailing you a copy of Arsenius the Hermit’s famous book:  “If Only Sheep Could Cook.”

I don’t think there is any more versatile and tasty cut of pork than the tenderloin. In the past, I have regaled you with various culinary treatments for that long and lean piece of pig meat. And today, I’ll share another.

I call this recipe “Tipsy Tenderloin” because the marinade requires a glass of dry red wine (and also because I think it’s only fair to reward the pig for his sacrifice). As a matter of fact, I suggest you reward yourself with a sip or two from the same bottle for preparing this lovely dish. So, here goes…

Shopping List: 1 pound pork tenderloin trimmed of all fat 8 ounces of dry red wine (I suggest zinfandel) 1 teaspoon of chopped fresh rosemary 2 tablespoons of Balsamic vinegar 2 cloves of garlic chopped 1 small onion chopped 2 tablespoons of flour 1 egg and one-half pound of shredded mozzarella 8 ounces of Italian sausage 3 ounces of extra virgin olive oil 1 red bell pepper cut into thin, two-inch long strips 1 package of chopped frozen spinach 1 teaspoon each of salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation Cut the pork tenderloin in two lengthwise and rub with salt and pepper

Between two sheets of wax paper, pound the pork into 1/2 inch thick pieces

Whip the wine, olive oil, garlic, rosemary and balsamic vinegar into a marinade

Marinade the pork in a bowl or plastic bag in the refrigerator for at least four hours

Cook the sausage separately, drain the fat and chop into small pieces

Sauté’ the onions, peppers and spinach and allow to cool

Stir the cheese, egg and sausage into the onion, pepper and spinach mixture

Remove the pork from the marinade and pat dry (reserve the marinade)

Spread the mixture onto the meat and turn into rolls using toothpicks to secure

Dust the rolls in flour and sauté in olive oil until brown on all sides

Place in the oven and cook at 375 F. for 20 minutes

Remove rolls from oven pan and allow to sit for 10 minutes

Pour reserved marinade into oven pan and reduce liquid to a sauce

Slice the pork into half-inch rolls, pour the sauce over and serve

I accompanied this dish with orzo in a light tomato sauce and served the remainder of the 2009 Foxglove Zinfandel ($19) to wash it all down. I think a sangiovese or old vine grenache would be an excellent choice for this dish too.

Enjoy !