Columns by John

John Brown has been a wine and food columnist in West Virginia since the 1980’s. His regular columns appear in the Charleston (WV) Gazette-Mail under the title Vines & Vittles.

The Prescription for Wine Boredom

The Prescription for Wine Boredom
Do you ever get in a wine funk? I don't mean the malady that affects you when you’ve had too much of a good thing. Rather, I'm referring to the repetitive and sometimes boring patterns we fall into when selecting a wine to have with dinner.

We are all creatures of habit and, when we discover those wines that please us, we tend to stick with them.... and stick with them.... and stick with them! Which, of course, makes drinking them about as exciting as watching paint dry.

Hey, there’s nothing wrong with using a “go to” cabernet or chardonnay that is dependable and consistently good when you need a sure thing that works with the meal you are preparing.

And since labels, particularly those affixed to imported wines, require the translation and technical skills of a multi-lingual chemist, it is not difficult to understand why we tend to stick with good wines when we find them. And it’s certainly convenient and prudent to keep a few dependable bottles in the house.

But as one of my wine-stained friends, Guzzler LaMont, once said: “Too much of a good thing is only okay if it’s free and there is a lot of it!”

Well, there may be a lot of ordinary, boring same old, same old out there, but it ain’t free.
My advice is to be adventuresome and try something new each week. Then make a list of the wines you like, why you like them and where they are made. You’ll be shocked and pleasantly surprised by how many really good (and inexpensive) wines there are available if you’ll only give them a try.


Here are a few that demonstrate the diversity, quality and value of wines available right in your own back yard.

2009 Marquis de Riscal Rueda ($12)
An excellent introduction to Verdejo (pronounced vare-day ooh) with bright and refreshing green apple flavors. This Spanish white is crisp and well balanced, and would make a great accompaniment to omelets or brunch type food.

2009 Bodegas Norton Chardonnay ($11)
From Argentina, this golden wine has apple and tropical fruit aromas. Good structure on the palate, round and balanced with a delicate finish. Excellent with roasted cod that is sauced with buerre blanc.

2009 Hahn Winery Monterey Pinot Noir ($15)
This wine showcases the versatility of Monterey County Pinot Noir. With flavors of black cherry and cola , this smooth and balanced wine can be paired with a wide range of dishes. Try it with smoked or grilled salmon, or a roast rack of lamb.

2006 Bodegas Lan Rioja Crianza ($15)
This wine was number 44 on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list of 2010.
From the Rioja region of northern Spain, this fresh and balanced red brims with cherry, spice and licorice. The texture is generous yet delicate.
Made from 100 percent Tempranillo, the wine begs to be paired with grilled flank steak.

Rose': Just the tonic for springtime meals

Springtime is such a weather rollercoaster ride that it is hard to decide which type of food suits the season.  And of course that determination precipitates the most important decision:  which wine to use with the meal.  

Since it is looking more and more like we have seen the last of the little white flakes, I’ve been morphing from big reds to lighter style reds and whites that pair exceptionally well with traditional springtime  fare such as pesto-pasta, grilled chicken and all manner of seafood.

   Spring is the official start of the outdoor grilling season and I am excited by the prospects of searing all manner of meats and veggies on my trusty old Weber charcoal grill. One of the easiest meals to prepare on your grill is sausage and, whether you prefer Italian, Polish, Bratwurst or some other pork-encased tube steak, I’ve got the perfect wine to match this all-American meal:  rose’. Now some of you may have a jaundiced view of this (sometimes) pink wine, harkening back to a time when rose was bottled in heavy clay-like crocks (remember Lancers?) and tasted like spritzy cherry soda. Or you may think of rose’ as a sweet white zinfandel type wine.  Well, if these are your impressions, Forgetaboutit !

Today, rose’ is made in just about every fine wine region using just about every red grape imaginable from cabernet sauvignon to carignan and from pinot noir to mourvedre.  And, while there are many slightly sweet aperitif roses, there are even more that are produced to accompany food.

I’m going to tell you about four of my favorites that are available at a fine wine shop near you and I can guarantee that they will be especially excellent matches to grilled sausages and even burgers or baby back ribs. Each of these wines is classically dry, but all have great fruit and a smooth finish. 2010 Grange Philippe “Gipsy” Rose ($14) - This wine from France (region unknown since it is labeled “Vin de Pays” meaning country wine) is a blend of syrah and grenache. Raspberry aromas give way to flavors of spice, cinnamon and cherries. You also might pair this rose’ with spicy Asian cuisine.   2010 Chateau Routas ($16) - From the center of Provence, this is a blend of cinsault, syrah, grenache and cabernet sauvignon that is about as complex as any rose’ I’ve had the pleasure of sipping. Flavors of strawberries and cola are smooth and the finish lasts a long, long time. 2010 Domaine Fontsainte Gris de Gris ($16) - Like its name, this is a mouthful of wine for a rose’. Salmon–colored with flavors of minerals, spice, berries and even pineapple, the wine can certainly stand up to sausages and sauces that have a kick. 2009 Banfi Centine Rose ($13) – Here’s a rose’ that is a blend of sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon and merlot from Tuscany that has aromas of freshly mown hay and leather.  It is pale orange in color and has flavors of dried cherries and spice that leave a lingering dry finish.

So, go out and grab a bottle of rose’ for those spring time meals or just crack open a bottle while you’re on the porch contemplating yard work. Contemplation takes time, you know.

Wine and food vacation options

Wine and food vacation options
If you haven’t already done so, it’s probably time to start planning your summer vacation. You may be considering the beach, the mountains or a cruise for your holiday this summer, and I hope you enjoy yourself whatever your destination.

I am fortunate to have a partner who is copacetic with my desire to spend our free time grazing all over the world in pursuit of the perfect food and wine pairing. In recent years, we’ve spent enjoyable sojourns to California, Oregon, Italy and France sampling the local cuisine and wine.

If you’re reading this, I’m sure you have at least a passing interest in food and wine so today I’ll mention two vacation ideas and a guided tour that may appeal to you as alternatives (or additions) to your travel plans this summer.

The Food and Wine Classic in AspenJune 17-19,

For 28 years, the Food and Wine Classic in Aspen, CO has been one of the premier culinary and wine events in America. Each June, FOOD & WINE magazine hosts consumers, members of the restaurant industry and press in mountains of Aspen.

The three-day weekend is chock full of cooking demonstrations and wine tastings. Seminars are led by wine and food personalities such as Mario Batali, José Andrés, Jacques Pépin, and Joshua Wesson. To register, call 877-900-9463 or visit www.foodandwine.com/classic.

Scallop course at IPNC lunch



International Pinot Noir CelebrationJuly 29-31

For the past 24 years, the IPNC has been hosting pinot noir fans and food lovers from around the world in McMinnville, Oregon (the heart of the Willamette Valley). I have attended this gathering on three occasions and can tell you from personal experience this is a fantastic event for wine and food fans.

The 2011 IPNC will reunite winemakers, chefs, media and guests from the first event in 1987 and the past 24 gatherings. There will be more than 70 international Pinot noir producers, 50 Northwest chefs, and guests from just about everywhere in the world. Tickets are sold on a first come, first serve basis! To sign up go to www.ipnc.org or call 800-775-4762.

Slight Indulgence Wine Shop French Wine TourJune 30- July 10

Many of you who travel the state have met JC and Suzy Warman – owners of Slight Indulgence wine shop in Morgantown. The couple is hosting an 11-day trip to France to visit wineries and the regions of Burgundy, Bordeaux and Alsace. This promises to be an unforgettable experience for you wine and food lovers out there. For information, please call JC at 304-599-3402.

Wherever you venture this summer (even if it’s only to your front porch), have a good time and a great sip !

Barbecue and Wine

Barbecue and Wine
In my hedonist’s mind, almost everything has a relationship to food and wine. This time of year, my thoughts turn to light and refreshing sparkling wines and roses along with medium-bodied, spicy reds like pinot noir, Beaujolais or grenache.

As far as food is concerned, my warm weather menus- more often than not – consist of grilled foods or barbecue. Barbecue, however, means different things to different people.

For some, it is a verb as in: “I’m going to barbecue some hamburgers.” For others, barbecue is a noun and refers to a type of cooked pork or beef (usually rib meat) that is dry-rubbed and/or immersed in various sauces, then chopped or pulled and served on a bun.

To me, barbecue means a style of cooking. You’ll find just about every kind of food on my grill, including (but not limited to) pork, beef, lamb, fish, vegetables and sometimes even fruit.

In my estimation, barbecuing also requires a grill that uses “real” charcoal. Gas grills – no matter how fancy – simply do not measure up. The biggest problem with them is uneven heat distribution. It’s also difficult to use smoking woods such as hickory, mesquite or apple on a gas grill, and that’s a problem for me since I feel these chips or chunks of wood add a wonderful flavor dimension to many grilled foods.

And, okay I admit it, there’s just something compelling and almost ritualistic about setting charcoal on fire, and then using the coals to sear animal flesh or things that grow. I’m not sure I want know why this practice is so appealing to me - but it is.

So, in the interest of making barbecue believers of you, I’m going to share a simple recipe for barbecued pork ribs that is easy to prepare and delicious to eat. I prefer to use baby back ribs that have been trimmed of excessive fat and scored with a fork.

Whether you use large slab ribs or baby backs, this recipe begins with a dry rub. What’s a dry rub? Well, first of all, let me assure you it does not require a masseuse. However, it does involve a massage – of the ribs with spices -that is.

One of my favorite dry rubs consists of one tablespoon each of cumin, chili powder, kosher salt, coarsely ground black pepper, brown sugar, smoked paprika and cayenne pepper (optional for those faint of heart). Stir this mixture and then rub it onto both sides of the ribs. If time permits, let the ribs sit in the refrigerator for a few hours allowing them to absorb the flavors.

At this point, I often grab a handful of hickory chips, immerse them in warm water and allow them to soak for at least an hour. Using wood chips is optional, but worth it because they give the meat another layer of flavor.

Now, fire up the charcoal and when the coals turn white/gray, divide them in half and move them to either side of the grill so you’ll be able to cook them indirectly. I have a large Weber kettle-type grill which has two small metal containers I can fill with the coals. Add the hickory to the charcoal and place the ribs on the cooking grate.

Make sure the air vents on the grill are closed to about one-fourth of an inch and place the lid on the grill. In this manner, you’ll be able to keep the temperature relatively cool – approximately 275 to 300 degrees F. Check the vents regularly to adjust the heat if necessary and turn the ribs once during grilling. It usually takes between 1 to 1 ½ hours to slow cook the ribs.

WineBoy's finished product !



Once off the grill, I cut the ribs into bite-size pieces and then either serve them as is or immerse them in a tangy sauce. You might like to try this sauce.

WineBoy Barbecue Sauce
Combine a cup of ketchup with half a cup of white vinegar in a cooking pot
Pour a 12-ounce bottle of beer and two ounces of orange juice to the pot
Add a tablespoon each of brown sugar and molasses
Add one teaspoon each of dried mustard and Tabasco
Bring to a boil and allow to simmer for about 15 minutes until it thickens
Dip the rib pieces in the sauce and serve.

Wines for your barbecue? Try these: Zardetto Prosecco ($13 - a sparkler from northern Italy); 2007 Sass Pinot Noir from Oregon ($23); 2009 Crios Rose of Malbec from Argentina ($13); and 2006 Las Rocas Old Vines Grenache from Spain ($14).

Now, let’s chow down!

Provence: A cure for the blah's

Provence:  A cure for the blah's
I’m easily bored. Whether that’s a sign of a sterile imagination or an attention deficit disorder, I will admit that I am always searching for new experiences to stimulate me. Heck, maybe I need a curiosity transplant.

Anyway, that’s probably why I’m obsessed with wine and food where there are endless opportunities to feed my insatiable appetite for variety. It’s hard to be bored with a subject that can never be fully explored.

So when I’m tired of a particular wine or dish and the blahs are about to take hold, I simply close my eyes, imagine a map of the civilized world and select a place where I know the eatin’ and drinkin’ will be (as we say here in the Kanawha Valley) Spay-shull !

How about Provence in southern France?

While Provence is not as well known for its wines as say Bordeaux, Burgundy or Champagne, you may be assured that vines grown in this beautiful and topographically diverse landscape produce some excellent bottles.

Several years ago, I visited the area and actually spent a week in a small village, Menerbes, which was made famous by a PBS Television series entitled: “A Year In Provence.” The series was a film adaptation of a book by the same name written by Peter Mayle.

Anyway, my daily sojourns into the Provencal countryside yielded not only excellent wines, but also delicious regional foods, including a plethora of wonderful cheeses, fruits, and vegetables along with excellent lamb as well as seafood fresh from the Mediterranean.

The most prestigious wine of Provence, and also the most expensive, is Chateuauneuf Du Pape, a full-bodied red that has excellent aging potential. But you don’t have to spend more than $10 to $20 a bottle to get a truly excellent wine. Red wines from Provence are characterized by peppery, spicy, dark fruit flavors and they pair especially well with roasted meats and grilled vegetables.

There have been an incredible string of good to superlative vintages in Provence and the Rhone region over the past decade, particularly from 1998 through 2009. In fact, the excellent wines of 2007 are now being eclipsed by the spectacular 2009 vintage.

The ubiquitous red grape of the region is grenache which is blended with the more famous syrah, along with other lesser known varieties, to produce Chateauneuf Du Pape and the other reds of Provence.

After the producer’s name on the label, the wines are also identified by the villages near where the vines are grown. The most famous of these are Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Beaumes-de-Venise (famous for white dessert wine) and Tavel.

In fact, some the world's best rose is produced in Tavel.  Wines from Provence called Cotes Du Rhone,  made from both white and red grapes, are readily available and worth seeking out since they represent value and quality.





Some wines of Chateauneuf Du Pape






While red is still king in Provence and the Rhone, the whites can be very good too. Some of the more famous whites grown in Provence are viognier, marsanne and roussanne. These whites can be medium to full-flavored and match up well to the area’s excellent seafood and dishes such as Bouillabaisse.

Visit your local wine shop and have them point you to the wines of Provence. They’re guaranteed to cure the blahs!