Columns by John

John Brown has been a wine and food columnist in West Virginia since the 1980’s. His regular columns appear in the Charleston (WV) Gazette-Mail under the title Vines & Vittles.

Washington State wines: everything in balance !

Washington State wines:  everything in balance !
Most experts agree that the Napa Valley is the greatest wine making region in this country and one of the best viticultural locations on the planet. While it is hard to dispute that point of view, one other area- year in and year out- is challenging Napa, particularly when it comes to producing wines from cabernet sauvignon and merlot.

I present for your consideration the state of Washington which has become, over the past couple of decades, one of the world's premier wine-producing regions! You're probably wondering how I came to this startling conclusion. Suffice it to say, years of personal research (i.e., drinking the stuff) made a believer of me!

In an area of the country perhaps better known for producing cherries, asparagus, apples, apricots and RAIN, thousands of acres of grapes have been planted, and some of the resulting wines are nothing short of stunning.

Of course when an “easterner” thinks of Washington, Seattle comes immediately to mind. However, that beautiful city, in the rain shadow of the Cascade Mountains to its east and the Olympic range to its west, is not where the majority of grapes are grown.

While there are some wineries in the Seattle/Puget Sound area actually growing vines, the overwhelming tonnage of vinifera is being produced across the Cascade Mountains in Eastern Washington.

Talk about a change! When you travel through the Snoqualmie pass - just 45 miles from Seattle - you go from a rain forest to a high mountain desert where the majority of vineyards are planted and extend eastward to the border with Idaho.

Washington State Wine Regions



And in the past 30 years, the wine business in Washington has grown exponentially.
Consider this: in 1981, there were only 19 wineries in the state. Today there are more than 700 scattered over 11 American Viticultural Areas (AVA’s), and the industry continues to grow vigorously.

So what makes this northwest corner of the U.S. so special? Excellent terroir, baby!

That somewhat confusing French word (pronounced tare-wah) means Washington has the requisite soil, climate and geographic location most ideally suited to growing some of the world's greatest wine grapes including, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, chardonnay, semillon and riesling.

I spent a week touring the area more than a decade ago and came to a rapid conclusion, after tasting the best the state had to offer, that the wines are exceptional. Since then, things have only gotten better and the cabernets and merlots are among the best being produced anywhere.

A bold statement? Maybe not, once you've tasted the wines. In addition to intensity, richness, elegance and power, Washington State wines have the potential to achieve a qualitative attribute uncommon in California - or anywhere else for that matter.

That characteristic is balance.
Balanced wines possess a harmony of fruit, alcohol and acid. There are also many sub-components that contribute to balance such as tannins and phenolic compounds and other technical stuff that only a chemist would find interesting.

Washington State, because of its unique terroir, has the ability to produce wines of exceptional quality and balance. I am particularly fond of the cabernet, merlot, riesling and semillon being made in the state.

Here are a few of my favorite labels from Washington State that you should find appealing. L’Ecole No. 41; Columbia Crest; Canoe Ridge; Hedges; Leonetti; Waterbrook; Quilceda Creek; Woodward Canyon; Covey Run; Hogue Cellars; Kiona; Milbrandt; Walla Walla; Chateau Ste. Michelle; Columbia Winery; DeLille Cellars; and Barnard Griffin Winery.

Mountaineers are Always Free - to choose wine in them thar hills

When Joseph H. Diss Debar came up with our state’s slogan- Montani, Sempar, Liberi (“Mountaineers are Always Free”) in 1872, he kind of left it up to us to decide what we are “always free” to do. Taken to its literal and extreme conclusion by some mountaineers, those historic Latin words on the West Virginia State Seal have lead to incarceration.

My application of the slogan is much less dramatic. I take it to mean that I’m free to visit and experience all areas of the state, and then raise a glass to its vast and majestic beauty. Of course, unlike the aforementioned mountaineers, I choose to toast the state with a glass of wine instead of  a jug of John Barleycorn.

Hey, I’m not picking on those who prefer lesser beverages, but nothing compares with the experience of enjoying good food and wine in the lodge of one of our glorious state parks, or in one of our exceptional resorts while observing Mother Nature’s artwork.

I wax poetic only because I have visited some incredible places over the past several months where food and wine were the central theme around which visitors could enjoy and experience the beauty of nature right here in West –By-Golly.

Most recently, Stonewall Resort hosted their 8th annual Culinary Classic (held each March) where chefs from all over the state were able to showcase their gourmet wares and share them with the attending guests. More than 250 people attended this year’s event and sampled not only excellent cuisine, but also wines to match the delicacies.

Some of the restaurants and other food purveyors participating were: Bridgeport Conference Center, Waterplace Restaurant, Bridge Road Bistro, The Greenbrier Resort, Huntington Prime, The Ember Restaurant (at Snowshoe Resort), Graceland Inn, WV Northern Culinary School, Mountain State university Culinary School, Carver College, Columbus Culinary Institute, Gordon Foodservice, Green Mountain Coffee, Good Golly Ms. Molly Restaurant, Beverage Distributors and, of course, Stonewall Resort.

Chef Paco Aceves, along with food and beverage director Chris Steffich, deserve kudos for again making this one of the signature food and wine events of the year. The dishes sampled on one of the evening events were eclectic, creative and scrumptious! They ranged from smoked salmon to pork belly (prepared four different ways), to pulled pork and barbeque chicken tortillas, to duck and rabbit terrines, to tiny crepe cones stuffed with various foams, seafood and meats.

Incredibly enough, many of the culinary schools participating created elaborate and sometimes very large ice carvings.

And the wines were picked to match the culinary delights. My favorite combo was a 2008 Frei Brothers Zinfandel and duck terrine that was infused with figs and topped with sun-dried tomatoes. This delight was prepared by the culinary team at Stonewall.

And in the "I hate to admit it department"  (are you reading this Rich Ireland?),  one of the most interesting pairings was Yuengling Porter and chocolate covered espresso beans. Beer with gourmet food ?? Well, I declare !!

All in all, this was a great event and a testament to the quality of cuisine in West Virginia.

Wine Recommendations: 2008 Banfi Centine Rosso ($12) From Italy’s Tuscan region, this sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon and merlot blend is an excellent burger, pizza and red sauce pasta wine. Centine is well-made and nicely balanced and could benefit from decanting to release the flavors.

2009 Acrobat Pinot Gris ($13) - Acrobat from King Estate in Oregon is medium-bodied with ripe apple, pear and white peach flavors. It is crisp with a nice finish. Try the wine as a porch-sipper or pair it with brunch type food or fresh fruit.

The Prescription for Wine Boredom

The Prescription for Wine Boredom
Do you ever get in a wine funk? I don't mean the malady that affects you when you’ve had too much of a good thing. Rather, I'm referring to the repetitive and sometimes boring patterns we fall into when selecting a wine to have with dinner.

We are all creatures of habit and, when we discover those wines that please us, we tend to stick with them.... and stick with them.... and stick with them! Which, of course, makes drinking them about as exciting as watching paint dry.

Hey, there’s nothing wrong with using a “go to” cabernet or chardonnay that is dependable and consistently good when you need a sure thing that works with the meal you are preparing.

And since labels, particularly those affixed to imported wines, require the translation and technical skills of a multi-lingual chemist, it is not difficult to understand why we tend to stick with good wines when we find them. And it’s certainly convenient and prudent to keep a few dependable bottles in the house.

But as one of my wine-stained friends, Guzzler LaMont, once said: “Too much of a good thing is only okay if it’s free and there is a lot of it!”

Well, there may be a lot of ordinary, boring same old, same old out there, but it ain’t free.
My advice is to be adventuresome and try something new each week. Then make a list of the wines you like, why you like them and where they are made. You’ll be shocked and pleasantly surprised by how many really good (and inexpensive) wines there are available if you’ll only give them a try.


Here are a few that demonstrate the diversity, quality and value of wines available right in your own back yard.

2009 Marquis de Riscal Rueda ($12)
An excellent introduction to Verdejo (pronounced vare-day ooh) with bright and refreshing green apple flavors. This Spanish white is crisp and well balanced, and would make a great accompaniment to omelets or brunch type food.

2009 Bodegas Norton Chardonnay ($11)
From Argentina, this golden wine has apple and tropical fruit aromas. Good structure on the palate, round and balanced with a delicate finish. Excellent with roasted cod that is sauced with buerre blanc.

2009 Hahn Winery Monterey Pinot Noir ($15)
This wine showcases the versatility of Monterey County Pinot Noir. With flavors of black cherry and cola , this smooth and balanced wine can be paired with a wide range of dishes. Try it with smoked or grilled salmon, or a roast rack of lamb.

2006 Bodegas Lan Rioja Crianza ($15)
This wine was number 44 on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 list of 2010.
From the Rioja region of northern Spain, this fresh and balanced red brims with cherry, spice and licorice. The texture is generous yet delicate.
Made from 100 percent Tempranillo, the wine begs to be paired with grilled flank steak.

Rose': Just the tonic for springtime meals

Springtime is such a weather rollercoaster ride that it is hard to decide which type of food suits the season.  And of course that determination precipitates the most important decision:  which wine to use with the meal.  

Since it is looking more and more like we have seen the last of the little white flakes, I’ve been morphing from big reds to lighter style reds and whites that pair exceptionally well with traditional springtime  fare such as pesto-pasta, grilled chicken and all manner of seafood.

   Spring is the official start of the outdoor grilling season and I am excited by the prospects of searing all manner of meats and veggies on my trusty old Weber charcoal grill. One of the easiest meals to prepare on your grill is sausage and, whether you prefer Italian, Polish, Bratwurst or some other pork-encased tube steak, I’ve got the perfect wine to match this all-American meal:  rose’. Now some of you may have a jaundiced view of this (sometimes) pink wine, harkening back to a time when rose was bottled in heavy clay-like crocks (remember Lancers?) and tasted like spritzy cherry soda. Or you may think of rose’ as a sweet white zinfandel type wine.  Well, if these are your impressions, Forgetaboutit !

Today, rose’ is made in just about every fine wine region using just about every red grape imaginable from cabernet sauvignon to carignan and from pinot noir to mourvedre.  And, while there are many slightly sweet aperitif roses, there are even more that are produced to accompany food.

I’m going to tell you about four of my favorites that are available at a fine wine shop near you and I can guarantee that they will be especially excellent matches to grilled sausages and even burgers or baby back ribs. Each of these wines is classically dry, but all have great fruit and a smooth finish. 2010 Grange Philippe “Gipsy” Rose ($14) - This wine from France (region unknown since it is labeled “Vin de Pays” meaning country wine) is a blend of syrah and grenache. Raspberry aromas give way to flavors of spice, cinnamon and cherries. You also might pair this rose’ with spicy Asian cuisine.   2010 Chateau Routas ($16) - From the center of Provence, this is a blend of cinsault, syrah, grenache and cabernet sauvignon that is about as complex as any rose’ I’ve had the pleasure of sipping. Flavors of strawberries and cola are smooth and the finish lasts a long, long time. 2010 Domaine Fontsainte Gris de Gris ($16) - Like its name, this is a mouthful of wine for a rose’. Salmon–colored with flavors of minerals, spice, berries and even pineapple, the wine can certainly stand up to sausages and sauces that have a kick. 2009 Banfi Centine Rose ($13) – Here’s a rose’ that is a blend of sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon and merlot from Tuscany that has aromas of freshly mown hay and leather.  It is pale orange in color and has flavors of dried cherries and spice that leave a lingering dry finish.

So, go out and grab a bottle of rose’ for those spring time meals or just crack open a bottle while you’re on the porch contemplating yard work. Contemplation takes time, you know.

Wine and food vacation options

Wine and food vacation options
If you haven’t already done so, it’s probably time to start planning your summer vacation. You may be considering the beach, the mountains or a cruise for your holiday this summer, and I hope you enjoy yourself whatever your destination.

I am fortunate to have a partner who is copacetic with my desire to spend our free time grazing all over the world in pursuit of the perfect food and wine pairing. In recent years, we’ve spent enjoyable sojourns to California, Oregon, Italy and France sampling the local cuisine and wine.

If you’re reading this, I’m sure you have at least a passing interest in food and wine so today I’ll mention two vacation ideas and a guided tour that may appeal to you as alternatives (or additions) to your travel plans this summer.

The Food and Wine Classic in AspenJune 17-19,

For 28 years, the Food and Wine Classic in Aspen, CO has been one of the premier culinary and wine events in America. Each June, FOOD & WINE magazine hosts consumers, members of the restaurant industry and press in mountains of Aspen.

The three-day weekend is chock full of cooking demonstrations and wine tastings. Seminars are led by wine and food personalities such as Mario Batali, José Andrés, Jacques Pépin, and Joshua Wesson. To register, call 877-900-9463 or visit www.foodandwine.com/classic.

Scallop course at IPNC lunch



International Pinot Noir CelebrationJuly 29-31

For the past 24 years, the IPNC has been hosting pinot noir fans and food lovers from around the world in McMinnville, Oregon (the heart of the Willamette Valley). I have attended this gathering on three occasions and can tell you from personal experience this is a fantastic event for wine and food fans.

The 2011 IPNC will reunite winemakers, chefs, media and guests from the first event in 1987 and the past 24 gatherings. There will be more than 70 international Pinot noir producers, 50 Northwest chefs, and guests from just about everywhere in the world. Tickets are sold on a first come, first serve basis! To sign up go to www.ipnc.org or call 800-775-4762.

Slight Indulgence Wine Shop French Wine TourJune 30- July 10

Many of you who travel the state have met JC and Suzy Warman – owners of Slight Indulgence wine shop in Morgantown. The couple is hosting an 11-day trip to France to visit wineries and the regions of Burgundy, Bordeaux and Alsace. This promises to be an unforgettable experience for you wine and food lovers out there. For information, please call JC at 304-599-3402.

Wherever you venture this summer (even if it’s only to your front porch), have a good time and a great sip !