Columns by John

John Brown has been a wine and food columnist in West Virginia since the 1980’s. His regular columns appear in the Charleston (WV) Gazette-Mail under the title Vines & Vittles.

Witch Creek Wines: spellbinding potion

Witch Creek Wines: spellbinding potion
I consumed some palate pleasing red wine recently produced by a California winery with a West Virginia connection. Witch Creek Winery is a boutique operation located along the southern California coast in the village of  Carlsbad.

While the winery produces varietals such as cabernet and syrah, I am particularly impressed with the meritage (blended) wines that Witch Creek concocts. The winery also makes nebbiolo, aglianico, sangiovese and primitivo, a group of Italian grapes that are not widely made anywhere in the US.

Some friends of mine living in Tucker County poured me a taste of the wine one evening as we sat and sipped, reveling in one of those glorious Canaan Valley sunsets. Good wine with Mother Nature’s best. What an inspiring pairing!

Witch Creek, which sources its grapes from some of California’s most sought after AVA’s, has also garnered a bevy of medals from prestigious wine competitions such as the one sponsored by the San Francisco Chronicle.

I was able to taste through most of what Witch Creek has to offer and came away wanting more. Unfortunately, because of the limited production, most of the wines are sold at the winery and to a few select restaurants in California.

However, because of the mountain state connection, a little of this lovely juice will make it back here to a few select wine shops and restaurants. Look for Witch Creek wines in places such as Snowshoe Mountain Resort and selected other areas in the Potomac Highlands. In Charleston, a limited amount of the wine will be available in the Wine Shop at Capitol Market.

Dave's PG Red



Here are some notes on three of the wines I tasted just this past week that you may wish to seek out.

2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) – Medium-bodied wine with aromas of cola and ripe cherries. On the palate, this wine shows a spicy, peppery tone and finishes with a mocha impression. Grilled red meat would be my choice with this delicious wine.

2006 Kathy’s Cuvee ($48) – This meritage is a classic Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec. Balanced and complex with layers of berry fruit, this wine has a good tannic core and should benefit from three to five years more of bottle age. I would love to pair this with Veal Marsala smothered in Shitake mushrooms.  I recommend using Lombardo Marsala for the absolute best result.

2008 Dave’s PG Red ($48) – Another meritage comprised of cabernet, merlot and sangiovese, Dave's PG(Pretty Good) Red is chock full of bright cherry and cola flavors with richness and good depth along with excellent balancing acidity. This one begs to be matched to grilled beef short ribs basted with a mahogany barbecue sauce. By the way, Dave's Red is better than "Pretty Good!"

For those of you who wish to try the whole Witch Creek line,  you may shop the winery online at www.witchcreekwinery.com and order directly from them.

Wines for Thanksgiving

Wines for Thanksgiving
Domaine Serene Pinot Noir - Great for Turkey Day !



I hope you’ve been training hard because we are about to embark upon a food and wine marathon that begins with Thanksgiving, shifts into high gear for holiday parties, and roars into overdrive for Christmas and New Years’ celebrations.

We will consume more food and drink more wine during this period than at any other time during the year and, as a result, we will boost the first quarter revenues of exercise clubs, diet centers and clothing alteration shops throughout this great land.

Between Thanksgiving and Christmas, you will also make more than 50 percent of your total wine purchases for the year. Therefore, today I’ll give you a few wine suggestions to accompany the first big holiday.

Thanksgiving is just around the corner and turkey will once again be the centerpiece of this culinary celebration. In the past, I have written about the versatility of turkey to be successfully matched with red or white as well as light or full-bodied wines. The reason this is possible is because turkey has a variety of flavors, colors and textures which can match just about any wine.

Add to these dimensions, the manner in which the turkey is prepared (i.e., roasted, smoked, grilled or fried) and the type of stuffing used, and you have a complex set of flavor components that make matching wine with it fun. Indeed, Thanksgiving offers us a rare opportunity to sample several wines with the same meal (and that’s something to thankful for).

Conventional wine wisdom dictates that white meat should be accompanied with white wine. Well, in the case of Thanksgiving turkey, that is only partially true.

From an herbal sauvignon blanc (which pairs nicely with a sage-flavored bread dressing), to a medium-bodied, yet rich, Alsatian riesling, to a lighter-styled pinot grigio, to a creamy, full-bodied chardonnay, turkey can accommodate each of these white wines quite nicely.

But what really surprises some wine purists is how well turkey matches with red wine, particularly when the bird has been roasted on a grill or smoked. Full bodied reds like cabernet sauvignon, Rhone wines such as Chateauneuf Du Pape, along with zinfandel, shiraz or Amarone go especially well with smoked or grilled turkey.

The traditional oven-roasted turkey is also very nicely accompanied by a pinot noir, Beaujolais or even tempranillo from Spain. And, given the celebratory nature of Thanksgiving, sparkling wine and Champagne would be an appropriate match too.

And what about a dessert wine with that pumpkin pie? Well, I’ve got a few goodies for your sweet tooth that will pair especially well with this traditional dessert.

In the interest of impartiality, I will take on the formidable task of working my way through a plethora of both white, red and sparkling wines this Thanksgiving. I will then repair to the couch where, full of tryptophan and the fruit of the vine, I will snooze my way through a bevy of football games. Ah, the good life.

So here are some vinous ideas for you to consider as you plan your Thanksgiving dinner.

For the holiday aperitif: Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs, Domaine Carneros Brut, Iron Horse Russian Cuvee, or Zardetto Prosecco would tickle and tingle your palate and get you primed for the meal to come.

White wines: St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc, Trimbach Riesling, Merryville Chardonnay, Louis Jadot Chablis, Banfi Centine Bianco, Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer, Talley Vineyards Chardonnay and Tolloy Pinot Grigio.

Red wines: Franciscan Cabernet Sauvignon; Luigi Righetti Amarone, Martin Codax Tempranillo, Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel, Davis Bynum Russian River Sonoma County Pinot Noir; Domaine Serene Evanstad Reserve Pinot Noir,and Georges Duboeuf Morgon Beaujolais.

Desert wines: Michele Chiarlo Moscato, Navarro Late Harvest Riesling, J Vidal-fleury Muscat de Beaumes de venise.

Happy Thanksgiving.

Some tasteful holiday gift ideas

We’re all struggling right now to find just the right wine for the lucky folks on our holiday gift short list. To make things a little easier for you, I’ve spent a whole lot of time and exhausted a plethora of brain cells just to come up with some really tasty suggestions for your consideration.

All the wines I’m recommending are under $35 a bottle (most are under $20) and are available throughout the state at your favorite wine shops and grocery stores. So go out and have a little fun. You might even buy a bottle or two for your own pleasure.

2009 Estancia Chardonnay Pinnacle Ranches -The cool Monterey climate accompanied by a long growing season produced a ripe, mouth-filling chardonnay. Highlighted by a soft, creamy texture, this wine was partially barrel fermented and aged a while in oak. Roasted cod or sea bass that is simply sauced would benefit greatly from an accompaniment of this lovely wine.

2007 Allegrini Palazzo Della Torre – One of my all-time favorite reds, this blend of corvina and rondinella is a smooth, yet full-bodied wine made using the ripasso method where a portion of the grapes is allowed to dry for a few months before fermenting. The resulting wine is rich and robust with great black cherry fruit and cola flavors. This one begs to be paired with Osso Bucco or beef carbonade.

Rotari Rose- This non-vintage sparkler from Trento in northern Italy is a blend of 25% chardonnay 75% pinot noir. It was number 13 on Wine Enthusiast Magazine's 2010 Top 100 Best Buys of the Year. Produced in the champagne method, Rotari can be sipped as an aperitif or matched with appetizers like cheese, olives or fruit.

2009 Davis Bynum Pinot Noir - From the Russian River region of Sonoma County this pinot noir is medium-bodied, silky smooth and well balanced which makes it an exceptional match to dishes like grilled salmon or chicken breast stuffed with cheese and mushrooms.

2009 Benzinger Chardonnay –This wine is produced from grapes grown on the Sangiacomo vineyard in Carneros which is where I source the grapes for the chardonnay I make right here at Chez Brown. I must admit that - while my wine is pretty good - it’s not quite up to the standard of Benzinger which is creamy, rich and well-balanced. Try this chardonnay with lobster or Alaskan king crab in drawn butter. Ah decadence!

2008 Newton Claret - This Bordeaux blend from Napa, comprised of 53% merlot, 33% cabernet sauvignon, 8% malbec, 5% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot, is an amazing value for just a little more than $20. Flavors of mocha and coffee are subtle, but rich and there is very good balancing acidity. Match this wine with a rib roast rubbed with garlic, rosemary, black pepper and kosher salt.

2010 Robert Mondavi Riesling – A simple, refreshing wine with peach and ripe apple flavors, this riesling is slightly sweet with excellent acidity that would make it a good match to brunch dishes like quiche or to assorted fruit. Or just use it as an aperitif.

2007 Luigi Righetti Amarone - This medium-bodied Amarone (which is produced from dried Valpolicella grapes) still exhibits plum and other dark fruit flavors one expects from Amarone. The good news, though, is you can enjoy it now instead of having to wait for a decade or more for the wine to come around. This Amarone would be spectacular with marinated and grilled leg of lamb.

Wine and related holiday gift ideas

Depending upon your budget, the sky is virtually the limit when it comes to finding a wine to give (or receive from) that special person. Today, I’ll provide you with a listing of some of my favorite cabernet sauvignons from the exceptional 2007 vintage (note to my friends: please feel free to pass this along to my wife).

However, before I get to the wine recommendations, here are some wine-related gift ideas, including a stocking stuffer or two , for the wine-stained person in your life.

Wine ReferenceI’ve noted it before, but in my opinion, the absolute best wine reference book is the “World Atlas of Wine” by Hugh Johnson. It is a compendium of everything you need to know about wine, including information on specific grapes, wines and regions, as well as label descriptions, and the culture and history of wine. Check for it at your local bookshop or online.

Wine Buying ClubsJoining a wine-buying club is a unique way to explore a variety of wines from around the world with the convenience of regular door-to-door shipping or shopping. There are clubs geared for a variety of wine lovers from beginners to collectors. Talk to your local wine retailer about offerings they may have or go to: http://www.cawineclub.com/wine-of-the-month-club-links to find the best club and price for you.

Wine StorageFinding a place to store your special wine is always a challenge. One pretty neat option is the Wine Enthusiast Six -Bottle Touchscreen Wine Refrigerator. This adjustable, temperature- controlled wine refrigerator is a great gift for those who don’t have a lot of storage space, but want a reliable place to keep their special bottles. Check it out at: www.wineenthusiast.com. $100 with free shipping.

GlasswareThe aesthetics of sipping wine in crystal is oftentimes a very expensive proposition. However, the good folks at Masterpiece Crystal in Jane Lew, WV craft about the best reasonably priced wine vessels around. The hand-made lead free crystal glasses and carafes come in various shapes and sizes. Go to masterpiececrystal.com and check out these works of art or call 1-800-624-3114 to order direct from the factory.

Stocking StuffersFor the manual dexterity challenged wine drinkers in your life, you might slip a container of “Wine Away” in that Christmas stocking. Wine Away is a red wine strain remover that cleans up a clears out those stains that so often appear on your clothes or carpet when people like me are attempting to sip and speak at the same time. Shop for it locally or simply Google “Wine Away” and find it online for about $10.

If you are like me, I like to keep track of the truly special wines I have consumed. Using “Label Off” is one of the best ways to remove and collect those special wine labels. “Label Off” splits the printed surface of the paper from the adhesive backing leaving a laminated label to place into your wine catalog. $10.

Special WinesThe 2007 vintage for cabernet sauvignon in Napa Valley may go down as one of the best in decades. The wines are opulent, full-bodied, rich and balanced and should age well for years. Here are some 2007 cabernets you might wish to buy for that special person in your life. They range in price from about $35 to $100 a bottle.

Caymus Special Selection; Joseph Phelps Insignia; Shafer Stags Leap; Newton Napa Valley; Clos Du Val; Vineyard 29; Franciscan Napa Valley; Anderson’s Conn Valley; Robert Mondavi Napa Valley; Rudd Mount Veeder; Beaulieu Georges De Latour Private Reserve; and Cliff Lede Vineyards Stags Leap.

Happy Holidays!

Storing your special wines

Now that you've received those special holiday gifts of wine from your adoring friends and significant others, you're probably wondering how to store them if you don't own a temperature controlled wine cellar.

Well, fear not intrepid wino's, for today I shall enlighten you.

People are always asking me for suggestions on how to build or establish a wine cellar in their homes. Today, I’ll explain how you can find the proper place to store wine in your home or even in an apartment.

First of all, you needn’t be concerned about a major construction project unless you have the cash, inclination or the requisite carpenter skills to accomplish the task. Actually, folks living in homes or apartments with no basements can effectively create wine cellar- like environments in other types of spaces.

Before you begin, try and think ahead and make a determination on how many bottles you intend to store. It’s probably a good idea to come up with a generous estimation and then double it. That way, you’ll have plenty of room to grow the collection.

Keep in mind, you’ll need to design the area to store wines that you intend to drink in the near term (usually within a year) as well as those for actual aging.

Finding an appropriate place to store your little vinous gems requires paying attention to a few key details that will ensure your wines emerge from their Rip Van Winkle-like sleep mature and ready to enjoy.

If you have the luxury of a cellar, find an area where the basement wall is up against and below the ground. The reason: the temperature below ground is generally constant and usually in the range of between 50 and 60 degrees F. which is approximately the ideal temperature for aging wine.

If you don’t have a cellar, find a closet or other dark place where the wine is not exposed to natural or artificial light. Don’t store wine in the attic or any area where the temperature tends to rise during the day and, if necessary, use Styrofoam or other materials to create a stable temperature in the space.

Don’t be discouraged, however, if your average summer to winter temperature is variable as long as the temperature variation is no more than five to ten degrees throughout the year and the overall average temperature does not exceed 70 degrees F.

This stability (more than a set temperature) is a key factor in providing a good cellar environment. Wines stored in warmer environments tend to mature too quickly and can spoil easier.

Also make sure that the area is odor and vibration -free and that it is not overly dry. Very dry areas tend to cause the corks to shrink and wine to evaporate. (I find it much more enjoyable to use my body as the vessel from which an evaporation of wine occurs).

Actually, humidity in the range of 60 to 70 percent, is good for the wine and you can artificially create this effect by keeping an open container of water around the stored wine.

Obviously, you’ll need to store the wine on its side so that the cork stays moist. I will lay screw cap wines on their sides even though their enclosures don't allow them to improve with age -it's an aesthetic thing with me. You can also turn case boxes on their sides and use them to store the wine.

While you can age some white wines, most people tend to choose red wines for long-term storage. Wines such as Bordeaux, cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir and zinfandel, produced in particularly fine vintage years have the best potential to improve with age.

I’ve had a wine cellar for years and some of the wines I purchased to start the project are still resting there all dusty and cool in my basement. Every once in a while, I sneak down there, stare at them lovingly and, occasionally, bring one up to the dinner table to enjoy with friends and family on a very special occasion.

It's a truly tense situation until you open the bottle because there is a chance that the wine will be disappointing. But when it hits the mark, you will be thankful for your wine storage area.