WINEBOY RECOMMENDS: 2005 Newton Napa Valley Claret ($25) Claret (pronounced Clair-it) is the term the British use to refer to the red wine of Bordeaux. The Newton Claret is a Napa Valley blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and syrah. It is a rich, chocolaty, minty, mouthful of wine that -- while it should benefit from a few more years in the bottle -- is ready to enjoy now. I matched it with thick, oven-broiled pork chops glazed with a delicious, roasted raspberry chipotle sauce. (I must confess – the glaze is from a bottle, Fischer & Wieser, and I ordered it from www.jelly.com.) The ’05 Newton Claret is a pleasure to enjoy over a long winter’s dinner with someone special.

John Brown's grandparents, Saverio and Catarina Iaquinta, are seen at center above in this photo from the couple's 50th wedding anniversary A friend recently asked how I came to be such a fanatic about wine. Good question and I get it often, especially now that I have a wine blog and "WineBoy" weekly podcast. As a matter of fact, I did a little self analysis on that question years ago and I think I’ll share it with you right here and now.

When I was growing up in the 1950s and ‘60s, I had the privilege of being raised in a culture distinctly different from most of my contemporaries of that time, and light years away from how kids grow up today. Back in those times, my world almost exclusively revolved around home and family. My mother was Italian and my father was Irish, but since I was raised with my mother’s family, it was the Italian influence and ethnicity into which I was absorbed. My maternal grandparents were both immigrants who spoke heavily accented English and who provided their nine children and 23 grand children with the elements of Italian culture and values that have molded our extended families to this day.

Take wine, for example. As a child, I can remember scurrying down to the cellar with an empty milk jug to fetch a quart of wine from one of my grandpa’s barrels. That dark and dank room, dug deep into the earth off the main cellar, is an endless source of fond, enduring and, I hope, never-fading memories. I can still smell that musty, grapy, earthen room, see grandpa and my uncles working the giant press and taste the frothy, sour new wine as it was being put into giant oak barrels. Wine was an ordinary feature of meals in my grandparent’s home. No less important than bread, butter or pasta, it was simply considered a necessary accompaniment to meals. It was not revered, nor would it ever have been the subject of any lengthy discourse. Simply put, the wine was good, it was usually red and it was always there.

I am sure my grandfather scratches his head in wonderment each time he looks down from heaven to check on me and notices that I spend an inordinate amount of time writing and talking about wine. I can just hear his gruff, heavily accented voice saying: “Hey John, why you spending so much time with all this wine stuff? Do something important. Dig a garden, help your brother can his peppers or throw the ball with your kids.”

Well, Grandpa, you’re probably right. I do spend a lot of time on wine, but I think I’ve finally figured out why. Wine provides me with a cultural link to my past and to my heritage. It also keeps me in touch with my ancestors, long gone, and allows me to dust off their values when I need to apply them (which is often) in this crazy world. Just as importantly, it gives me the opportunity to pass along these values and this heritage to my children who, I hope, will find some way to do the same with their kids, who in turn will do the same, and so on……

So when I write or talk about the particulars of wine or food, you and grandma will know that I’m really just passing along your values to the people closest to me and perhaps to those who read what I write. Now do you understand why I’m spending so much time with this ‘wine stuff,’ Grandpa?

Hey foodies and... um, wine-ies (wine-o's?): Want to spend a cold winter's weekend eating, drinking and living large in the lap of luxury? If so, you might want to cruise up I-79 to Stonewall Resort and take in the festivities known as the Cast Iron Cook-off this weekend.

This third annual Cast Iron Cook-off is an opportunity to not only sup on gourmet delights and sip a vast array of great wines, it's also a chance for you to pick up a few culinary pointers from some of this state and region's most accomplished chefs who will be competing for the grand prize (What else? A commemorative cast iron skillet). Here's a rundown of what you can expect at the event:

Friday, Jan. 25 6:30 p.m.: Dinner reception with several wines and hors d'oeuvres that feature Stonewall Resort Executive Chef Dale Hawkins's New Appalachian Cuisine.

Saturday, Jan. 269:30 am until 2 pm.: Cast Iron Cook-off Teams spend 1 1/2 hours preparing and then one hour in actual competition. Start times are staggered, so cook-off competitors and their guests can observe other teams when they are not competing. Interspersed with all these activities are wine and food tastings along with an event where you can actually have your cast-iron ware appraised.
6 p.m.: Sparkling wine reception with entertainment provided by Colleen Anderson in concert.
7 p.m.: Dinner features a 5-course gourmet meal with accompanying wines. An awards ceremony will celebrate the day's work and include the presenting of The West Virginia Pioneer Award.

Sunday, January 27A true country breakfast with your favorite goodies completes the weekend.

If you're interested in attending, contact Stonewall Resort (304-269-7400) for rates and packages.

In my hedonist’s mind, almost everything has a relationship to food and wine. In the summertime, my thoughts turn to cool refreshing white wines such as Sauvignon Blanc, Prosecco and Pinot Grigio, or spicy reds like Zinfandel, Syrah or Pinot Noir.

As far as food is concerned, to yours truly summertime means grilled foods or barbecue. Barbecue, though, means different things to different people. For some, it’s a verb as in: “I’m going to barbecue some hamburgers.” For others, barbecue is a noun and refers to a type of cooked pork or beef rib meat that is immersed in various sauces, chopped and served on a bun. Since I love to grill out, barbecue means a style of cooking to me. You’ll find just about every kind of food on my grill, including (but not limited to) pork, chicken, beef, lamb, fish, vegetables and sometimes even fruit.

In my estimation, barbecuing also requires a grill that uses “real” charcoal. Gas grills – no matter how fancy – simply do not measure up. The biggest problem with them is they don’t heat evenly, and it’s very difficult to add wood chips such as apple, mesquite or hickory to the fire. Using these chips or chunks adds a wonderful flavor dimension to grilled foods.

Plus, there is something compelling and almost ritualistic about setting charcoal on fire, and then using the coals to sear animal flesh or things that grow. I’m not sure I want know why this practice is so appealing to me - but it is. So, in the interest of making barbecue believers of you, I’m going to share a simple recipe for barbecued pork ribs that is easy to prepare and delicious to eat. I prefer to use baby back ribs that have been trimmed of excessive fat and scored with a fork.

Whether you use large slab ribs or baby backs, this recipe begins with a dry rub. What’s a dry rub? Well, first of all, let me assure you it does not require a masseuse. However, it does involve a massage – of the ribs with spices -that is. One of my favorite dry rubs consists of one tablespoon each of cumin, chili powder, kosher salt, coarsely ground black pepper, brown sugar and cayenne pepper (optional for those faint of heart). Stir this mixture and then rub it onto both sides of the ribs. If time permits, let the ribs sit in the refrigerator for a few hours allowing them to absorb the flavors.

At this point, I often grab a handful of hickory or apple wood chips (available at some grocery stores and home improvement stores such as Lowe’s and Home Depot) and immerse them in warm water and allow them to soak for at least half an hour. This is optional, but I think really gives the meat a great smoky flavor.

Now, fire up the charcoal and when the coals turn white/gray, move them to each corner of the grill, leaving space in the middle for the ribs to cook indirectly. Then add the wood chips to the charcoal. I have a large oblong, kettle-type grill which allows me to put about three slabs of ribs on the grill side by side. Make sure that the air vents on the grill are closed to about one-eighth of an inch. In this manner, you’ll be able to keep the temperature relatively cool – approximately 275 to 300 degrees F. Check the vents regularly to adjust the heat if necessary and turn the ribs once during grilling. It usually takes between 1 to 1 ½ hours to slow cook the ribs.

Once off the grill, I cut the ribs into bite-size pieces and then either serve them as is or immerse them in a tangy sauce.

WineBoy Recommends

Here’s one of my favorite barbecue sauces:

Combine:
- a cup of ketchup
- a half -cup of white vinegar
- a 12-ounce beer
- two ounces of orange juice
- a tablespoon each of molasses and brown sugar
- (optional) a teaspoon of cayenne.
Bring the mixture to a boil and then allow it to thicken for about half an hour.

Wines for your barbecue? All of these retail from between $12 and $20 a bottle:

- Zardetto Prosecco (a sparkler from northern Italy)
- Renwood Old Vines Zinfandel
- San Angelo Pinot Grigio
- Alan Scott New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc
- Argyle Pinot Noir
- Longview Shiraz

The latest edition of "WineBoy," our 5-minute Web show on the art and craft of wine appreciation, features part one of two programs on deciphering wine labels. Host John Brown first takes a look at what you can learn from a close look at California wine labels. A future program will take a gander at European wine labels, an entirely different read. Click here to view the program.