Is it Real or is it Really Vito’s Thunder Mountain Chablis? New Yorker Magazine’s Patrick Radden Keefe in his “Reporter at Large” column recently explored the rarified world of collecting ancient bottles of wine (read article here). Specifically, Radden focused on bottles purchased at auction by multi-millionaire Bill Koch which were purported to be from Thomas Jefferson’s private collection and dated from the late 1700s. The column reads like a mystery novel and attempts to shed some light on the murky and imprecise science of verifying the true age of older wines, some of which are purchased at auction for hundreds of thousands of dollars. In this particular case, Mr. Koch goes to great lengths to prove (or disprove) the age of the wines he supposedly purchased from Jefferson’s stash.

In addition to real-life intrigue, the piece has a cast of characters that reads like a who’s who of the wine world, including Robert Parker, Michael Broadbent, Serena Sutcliffe and a whole host of other wine personages that only the wine-obsessed would recognize. Check it out.

Falcor Update Lawyers and winery owners Mike Bee and Jim Peterson have a place for Napa Valley visitors to sip their stable of premium wines. Their new 11,000-square foot winery complex will have the capacity to produce 45,000 gallons of wine, or about 20,000 cases, according to Ryan Bee (son of Mike) who is the assistant wine maker and general manager. Ray Coursen, owner of Elyse Winery, is the winemaker.

Falcor produces a line of wines in small quantities from 200 to 500 cases for each varietal at prices from around $20 to $50 a bottle. Current releases include two Chardonnays and a Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Syrah and Cabernet Franc sourced from top Napa Valley Vineyards. Most of the wines are available at fine wine shops and a select few grocery stores such as Kroger’s Ashton Place.

The Yellow Brick BankI had the pleasant occasion to dine at Shepherdstown’s Yellow Brick Bank recently and, while the food is still as good as ever, the wine list has improved dramatically. The list is not particularly long, but it is definitely well-selected and very eclectic with offerings from around the wine world.

From Italian producer Alois Lageder’s excellent 2005 Pinot Grigio to the spicy, dark cherry flavors of the 2006 Wild Earth Pinot Noir from New Zealand’s Central Otago region, the list is chock full of delicious wines. Call for reservations at 304-876-2208.

Map of Rioja region of Spain from www.cellartours.com I have always been a fan of Rioja (pronounced Ree-OH-hah). It's a famous wine region in north-central Spain that produces red wine in a style similar to the more famous reds of Bordeaux. The connection with Bordeaux grew out of a vine disease which devastated those world-renowned French vineyards in the 1800's. Faced with having to completely replant their vineyards, many Bordelais ventured over the Pyrenees Mountains into Spain to grow grapes and make wine unaffected by the blight.

Settling in Rioja, the French passed along their wine-making techniques to the Spanish. While the grape varieties comprising Bordeaux red are completely different from the main Rioja grape (tempranillo), the Spanish vintners began adopting many of French viticultural practices, including using oak barrels to finish their wines. Today, the Rioja wine makers use French and American oak extensively to soften and age their wines.

The 2003 Monticello Crianza was aged in oak for 18 months. The government requirement for a wine to be called Crianza (which loosely translated means “age-ing of wine") is that it must be aged in oak for at least one year. The Monticello is round and richly flavored with hints of ripe cherries and anise, along with a toasty oak component which adds complexity to the wine. It is an excellent value, too! Pair it with cheeses such manchego or asiago or have it with grilled and marinated flank steak.

If you haven’t uncorked a bottle of Rioja red lately or ever , I highly recommend this wine for your sipping pleasure.

As much as I try not to, I sometimes slip into 'winespeak' in describing the hues, smells and tastes of a wine that -- when the adjectives are stripped away -- is either good, OK, or unpleasant. People often ask me why wine writers feel compelled to go to such great lengths and use such “flowery” terms to describe the sensory aspects of wine. My short answer is that wine has such multi-dimensional qualities that it is limiting and not very helpful to use basic terms to describe it. (And besides, most wine writers get paid by the word).

This all came to mind the other day as I was trying to describe the attributes of a particularly good red wine (from the state of Apulia in Italy) known as Salice Salentino. The stuff was so pleasing to me that I was having difficulty describing it without becoming overly exuberant. However, I think there is a difference between using what I will call traditional language to describe wine versus using non-traditional terms. For example, if I describe a riesling as having ripe apple flavors, you will immediately use your own memory of the taste, smell and texture of ripe apples to understand how the wine might actually taste.

If I wanted to be more specific, I could say that particular riesling has the taste of ripe Gala apples. Well, you get the point. In other words, the more specific the language used to describe how the wine looks, tastes and smells is, the better you will be able to make a decision on whether it appeals to you.

On the other hand, if I use non-traditional language to describe the wine, you may end up scratching your head and wondering what “precocious, assertive, or unctuous” have to do with the way a wine smells or tastes. Those are descriptors I try and steer clear of because, first and foremost, they sound like words an officious wine snob might use. And secondly, the terms don’t really provide any good information that can be used to evaluate whether or not I should purchase the wine.

That’s not to say I haven’t ever succumbed to the temptation. The rationalization I once used to defend my description of a particularly good wine ( as being “orgasmic” ) was that most people have some sense of what that word means. Hey, in the interest of propriety, I could have described the experience as having been “ethereal,” but then how many of us have a working knowledge of that transcendent term.

The moral of the story here is that you can benefit from descriptions that are based on solid sensory experiences. In evaluating wine, I have experienced the taste of blackberries, cherries, vanilla, cinnamon, etc.. And I have smelled toast, grass, butterscotch, mold, or limburger cheese. And, besides, it’s fun to sit and sip with friends and describe the plethora of sights, tastes and smells associated with wine. So, back to the 2004 San Marzano Salice Salentino ($11). This wine is bright red in color with aromas of leather, hay and spice. In the mouth, the wine is rich, yet has good balancing acidity, and exhibits flavors of ripe cherries. This is a wine to drink over the next year while the fruit is still fresh. I served the wine with a thin crust pizza I topped with fresh tomatoes, spinach, caramelized onions and buffalo mozzarella. Perfecto!

If you’re not a Romance language specialist, you probably have trouble understanding the gibberish on the label of a bottle of European wine. Join “WineBoy” webcast host John Brown in show 23 as he deciphers the information so you can make better buying decisions.

The show also features cameos by two of WineBoy’s alter egos — Sir Reginald Winesot Clydesdale and the Marcrazi Umberto Lupini — not to mention, a solid wine recommendation or two. Watch it at the WineBoy blog at thegazz.com.

Over the past several months, I have had the pleasure of tasting a number of excellent wines for all things WineBoy, including this blog, the "WineBoy" webcast and the “Main Ingredient” column in the Sunday Gazette-Mail. You may have seen the reviews of a few of these wines in the Main Ingredient, but in case you haven’t, you might want to look for these lovelies at your favorite wine shop or grocery store. Enjoy.

2006 Groth from Napa Valley ($17): This beauty combines the herbal and grassy flavors one expects from sauvignon blanc with a richer texture and fuller feel that should pair exceptionally well with a pasta and asparagus dish with bits of pancetta or bacon.

2005 Montirius Côtes du Rhône ($11): The southern Rhône Valley of France is known for chewy, juicy wines that exhibit a smoky, peppery quality. The most famous wine of the region is Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but there are other, more affordable options from that storied region. The Montirius is a lovely Côtes du Rhône red which is a blend of grenache, mourvèdre and syrah. This is a delicious wine chock-full of peppery, dark fruit flavors with a touch of smoke for good measure. Domaine Montirius is also one of the first French wineries to adopt organic and biodynamic practices in both the vineyard and winery. Try it with smoked chicken or grilled hamburgers.

2006 Nobilo Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($11) from New Zealand: Frank Nobilo made his fortune as a PGA touring pro, but, in my opinion, his best stroke was the establishment of the winery bearing his name. One of my favorite value wines is his ’06 sauvignon blanc. This is a crisp, refreshing sipper with a touch of melon and citrus and would be a great accompaniment to poached salmon sauced with dill infused mayonnaise.

2003 Saladini Pilastri Pregio del Conte ($20): Pregio del Conte is a blend of Aglianico and Montepulciano. From the Marches region of Italy, this wine has concentrated sweet dark fruit flavors and is balanced by lively acidity. It would be an excellent choice with roasted sirloin of pork seasoned with garlic, kosher salt, coarsely ground black pepper and rosemary.

2006 Ballantine Chenin Blanc ($17): This remarkable estate-grown Napa Valley chenin blanc, produced from 25 year–old vines, is a myth-breaker. Why? Well, most chenin blanc, especially from the famous Loire Valley region of Vouvray, is finished slightly sweet, and is a lovely brunch or aperitif quaff. The ’06 Ballantine is an elegant, dry wine with citrus and mineral notes, a hint of toasty vanilla and a full-mouth feel. It is also crisp, balanced and would be a great match to a stir-fry of chicken, peanuts, onions and sweet red peppers with a touch of soy and a few drops of sesame oil..

2005 Hedges CMS Red ($14): This Washington State meritage blend of almost equal parts cabernet sauvignon and merlot with about 6% syrah is a delicious, balanced and complex wine that is an absolute bargain. Washington wines, particularly cabernet and merlot, can be the equal to and, in some vintages, even exceed the wines of California and Bordeaux. The 2005 vintage was excellent and this wine reflects that quality. With a rich, mouth-coating cola and black currant flavor, this well-balanced wine is drinkable now, but will benefit from a few more years in the bottle. Serve it with roasted fillet of beef in a Bordelaise sauce.

2005 White Knight Clarksburg Viognier ($17): Viognier does really well in almost arid conditions and in poorly drained soil. Sounds weird, I know. This Viognier was grown along the Sacramento River Delta near the town of Clarksburg (not WV). With floral aromas and apricot and peach flavors, the White Knight is a medium -bodied mouthful of wine. This wine is a very pleasing quaff and can be used as an aperitif or with lighter foods such as a cobb salad with a ranch-style dressing.

2005 Allegrini Valpolicella Classico ($17) –In the rolling hills of northeastern Italy just beyond Verona, the Allegrini family has been producing one of the best Valopolicella’s in that vine-rich nation. This wine is fruit-driven bottle with excellent cherry flavors and bright acidity to match nicely with lighter dishes such as an omelet or frittata made with eggs, provolone, onions, arugula and Italian sausage.