Map of Rioja region of Spain from www.cellartours.com I have always been a fan of Rioja (pronounced Ree-OH-hah). It's a famous wine region in north-central Spain that produces red wine in a style similar to the more famous reds of Bordeaux. The connection with Bordeaux grew out of a vine disease which devastated those world-renowned French vineyards in the 1800's. Faced with having to completely replant their vineyards, many Bordelais ventured over the Pyrenees Mountains into Spain to grow grapes and make wine unaffected by the blight.

Settling in Rioja, the French passed along their wine-making techniques to the Spanish. While the grape varieties comprising Bordeaux red are completely different from the main Rioja grape (tempranillo), the Spanish vintners began adopting many of French viticultural practices, including using oak barrels to finish their wines. Today, the Rioja wine makers use French and American oak extensively to soften and age their wines.

The 2003 Monticello Crianza was aged in oak for 18 months. The government requirement for a wine to be called Crianza (which loosely translated means “age-ing of wine") is that it must be aged in oak for at least one year. The Monticello is round and richly flavored with hints of ripe cherries and anise, along with a toasty oak component which adds complexity to the wine. It is an excellent value, too! Pair it with cheeses such manchego or asiago or have it with grilled and marinated flank steak.

If you haven’t uncorked a bottle of Rioja red lately or ever , I highly recommend this wine for your sipping pleasure.

As much as I try not to, I sometimes slip into 'winespeak' in describing the hues, smells and tastes of a wine that -- when the adjectives are stripped away -- is either good, OK, or unpleasant. People often ask me why wine writers feel compelled to go to such great lengths and use such “flowery” terms to describe the sensory aspects of wine. My short answer is that wine has such multi-dimensional qualities that it is limiting and not very helpful to use basic terms to describe it. (And besides, most wine writers get paid by the word).

This all came to mind the other day as I was trying to describe the attributes of a particularly good red wine (from the state of Apulia in Italy) known as Salice Salentino. The stuff was so pleasing to me that I was having difficulty describing it without becoming overly exuberant. However, I think there is a difference between using what I will call traditional language to describe wine versus using non-traditional terms. For example, if I describe a riesling as having ripe apple flavors, you will immediately use your own memory of the taste, smell and texture of ripe apples to understand how the wine might actually taste.

If I wanted to be more specific, I could say that particular riesling has the taste of ripe Gala apples. Well, you get the point. In other words, the more specific the language used to describe how the wine looks, tastes and smells is, the better you will be able to make a decision on whether it appeals to you.

On the other hand, if I use non-traditional language to describe the wine, you may end up scratching your head and wondering what “precocious, assertive, or unctuous” have to do with the way a wine smells or tastes. Those are descriptors I try and steer clear of because, first and foremost, they sound like words an officious wine snob might use. And secondly, the terms don’t really provide any good information that can be used to evaluate whether or not I should purchase the wine.

That’s not to say I haven’t ever succumbed to the temptation. The rationalization I once used to defend my description of a particularly good wine ( as being “orgasmic” ) was that most people have some sense of what that word means. Hey, in the interest of propriety, I could have described the experience as having been “ethereal,” but then how many of us have a working knowledge of that transcendent term.

The moral of the story here is that you can benefit from descriptions that are based on solid sensory experiences. In evaluating wine, I have experienced the taste of blackberries, cherries, vanilla, cinnamon, etc.. And I have smelled toast, grass, butterscotch, mold, or limburger cheese. And, besides, it’s fun to sit and sip with friends and describe the plethora of sights, tastes and smells associated with wine. So, back to the 2004 San Marzano Salice Salentino ($11). This wine is bright red in color with aromas of leather, hay and spice. In the mouth, the wine is rich, yet has good balancing acidity, and exhibits flavors of ripe cherries. This is a wine to drink over the next year while the fruit is still fresh. I served the wine with a thin crust pizza I topped with fresh tomatoes, spinach, caramelized onions and buffalo mozzarella. Perfecto!

If you’re not a Romance language specialist, you probably have trouble understanding the gibberish on the label of a bottle of European wine. Join “WineBoy” webcast host John Brown in show 23 as he deciphers the information so you can make better buying decisions.

The show also features cameos by two of WineBoy’s alter egos — Sir Reginald Winesot Clydesdale and the Marcrazi Umberto Lupini — not to mention, a solid wine recommendation or two. Watch it at the WineBoy blog at thegazz.com.

Over the past several months, I have had the pleasure of tasting a number of excellent wines for all things WineBoy, including this blog, the "WineBoy" webcast and the “Main Ingredient” column in the Sunday Gazette-Mail. You may have seen the reviews of a few of these wines in the Main Ingredient, but in case you haven’t, you might want to look for these lovelies at your favorite wine shop or grocery store. Enjoy.

2006 Groth from Napa Valley ($17): This beauty combines the herbal and grassy flavors one expects from sauvignon blanc with a richer texture and fuller feel that should pair exceptionally well with a pasta and asparagus dish with bits of pancetta or bacon.

2005 Montirius Côtes du Rhône ($11): The southern Rhône Valley of France is known for chewy, juicy wines that exhibit a smoky, peppery quality. The most famous wine of the region is Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but there are other, more affordable options from that storied region. The Montirius is a lovely Côtes du Rhône red which is a blend of grenache, mourvèdre and syrah. This is a delicious wine chock-full of peppery, dark fruit flavors with a touch of smoke for good measure. Domaine Montirius is also one of the first French wineries to adopt organic and biodynamic practices in both the vineyard and winery. Try it with smoked chicken or grilled hamburgers.

2006 Nobilo Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($11) from New Zealand: Frank Nobilo made his fortune as a PGA touring pro, but, in my opinion, his best stroke was the establishment of the winery bearing his name. One of my favorite value wines is his ’06 sauvignon blanc. This is a crisp, refreshing sipper with a touch of melon and citrus and would be a great accompaniment to poached salmon sauced with dill infused mayonnaise.

2003 Saladini Pilastri Pregio del Conte ($20): Pregio del Conte is a blend of Aglianico and Montepulciano. From the Marches region of Italy, this wine has concentrated sweet dark fruit flavors and is balanced by lively acidity. It would be an excellent choice with roasted sirloin of pork seasoned with garlic, kosher salt, coarsely ground black pepper and rosemary.

2006 Ballantine Chenin Blanc ($17): This remarkable estate-grown Napa Valley chenin blanc, produced from 25 year–old vines, is a myth-breaker. Why? Well, most chenin blanc, especially from the famous Loire Valley region of Vouvray, is finished slightly sweet, and is a lovely brunch or aperitif quaff. The ’06 Ballantine is an elegant, dry wine with citrus and mineral notes, a hint of toasty vanilla and a full-mouth feel. It is also crisp, balanced and would be a great match to a stir-fry of chicken, peanuts, onions and sweet red peppers with a touch of soy and a few drops of sesame oil..

2005 Hedges CMS Red ($14): This Washington State meritage blend of almost equal parts cabernet sauvignon and merlot with about 6% syrah is a delicious, balanced and complex wine that is an absolute bargain. Washington wines, particularly cabernet and merlot, can be the equal to and, in some vintages, even exceed the wines of California and Bordeaux. The 2005 vintage was excellent and this wine reflects that quality. With a rich, mouth-coating cola and black currant flavor, this well-balanced wine is drinkable now, but will benefit from a few more years in the bottle. Serve it with roasted fillet of beef in a Bordelaise sauce.

2005 White Knight Clarksburg Viognier ($17): Viognier does really well in almost arid conditions and in poorly drained soil. Sounds weird, I know. This Viognier was grown along the Sacramento River Delta near the town of Clarksburg (not WV). With floral aromas and apricot and peach flavors, the White Knight is a medium -bodied mouthful of wine. This wine is a very pleasing quaff and can be used as an aperitif or with lighter foods such as a cobb salad with a ranch-style dressing.

2005 Allegrini Valpolicella Classico ($17) –In the rolling hills of northeastern Italy just beyond Verona, the Allegrini family has been producing one of the best Valopolicella’s in that vine-rich nation. This wine is fruit-driven bottle with excellent cherry flavors and bright acidity to match nicely with lighter dishes such as an omelet or frittata made with eggs, provolone, onions, arugula and Italian sausage.

Coppola's "Director's Cut" Zinfandel is a perfect companion to the grilled pork chop recipe below With the arrival of fall, my thoughts turn to richer textured wines and fuller-flavored edibles, including all manner of grilled meat dishes that just seem to go so well with this time of year. But just as I began to plan a feast built around the above mentioned victuals, I visited my family doctor for an annual physical and a dose of reality.

Suffice it to say that his prescription for my continued well-being differs considerably from my own opinion of what is best for me. Hey, after all, I’m a devotee of Dr. Feelgood, whose idea of moderation includes being careful not to be so careful. Anyway, the dish I’m going to suggest to you today is really kind of healthy and it does include the liberal application of red wine (which we all know is important to cardiac health).

I'm a man of simple tastes, yet sometimes I am required to consume complex foods with deeply flavored and sometimes esoteric wines, then expected to render erudite opinions on the experience. For example, it’s not easy to explain why rack of antelope infused with lime, kiwi and a balsamic chipotle reduction goes so well with petit verdot grown on the south-facing slopes of Mt. Etna. This job can be challenging!

So when I cook for friends and family, the food is usually straightforward, down-home, meat and starch type meals with fairly inexpensive, no-nonsense wines that taste good and help de-clog the arteries (see, I’m really trying to be healthy). In fact, I am a great fan of thick-cut pork chops, grilled and served with a great big, full-throttle Zinfandel. But to do it right, you’ll need the best chops available and, for these, I count on the good folks from Sandy Creek Farms near Ravenswood.

You may have heard about Sandy Creek. They raise beef, pork and lamb on organic food-stocks with no antibiotics or other additives. They then butcher and flash freeze the cuts of meat which they deliver in and around the Charleston area. If you’re interested in having them deliver to you call: 800-487-2569. I regularly order pork chops from Sandy Creek. Why? Simply put, they are without a doubt the leanest and tastiest chops I’ve ever consumed. Here’s my recipe (which involves preparing a brine and glaze for the chops) along with a few wine suggestions to go with this delicious meal.

1. Start with one and one-half inch bone-in chops. For the brine, you‘ll need one-quart of apple cider and a container or gallon storage bag to accommodate the liquid and pork. To the apple cider add one-quarter cup each of kosher salt and brown sugar and let the mixture brine the pork for about four hours.

2. For the glaze, you’ll need to blend three heaping tablespoons of cherry or blackberry preserves, one-half teaspoon of chipotle powder (or two tablespoons of canned chipotle in adobo sauce) and one tablespoon of white vinegar in a sauce pan. Heat the glaze until it begins to boil and then remove it from the stove.

3. Extract the chops from the liquid and pat them dry. Next, prepare a charcoal fire or start your gas grill. If you have apple wood chips, run them under water for about 10 seconds just to get them wet. Place the chips on the fire, put the chops on the grill and close the grill cover.

4. With a very hot fire, you’ll need to turn the chops after about four minutes to prevent them from burning. The total cooking time should be no more than 15 minutes for the chops (which should be very slightly pink inside). Right before you remove the chops from the grill, baste them on both sides with the glaze and let them cook on both sides for about 30 seconds a side. When you remove them from the grill, baste them again on both sides and serve.

My favorite side dish with these glazed pork chops are baked grits with cheddar cheese to which you can add jalapeno peppers if you like.

WINE RECOMMENDATION: Now, for the perfect wine accompaniments. Try the 2005 Coppola Director’s Cut Zinfandel ($15). Or you might also select the 2004 Renwood Old Vines Zin ($20) or the 2004 Marietta Old Vines Zinfandel ($18).