Columns by John

John Brown has been a wine and food columnist in West Virginia since the 1980’s. His regular columns appear in the Charleston (WV) Gazette-Mail under the title Vines & Vittles.

How to conduct a wine tasting and FAQ’s on wine

One of the small pleasures of my life is conducting wine tastings. I really enjoy imparting information to eager learners, and wine lovers are perfect students. You ask good questions, are usually very attentive and truly want to learn more about the wine you drink.

My tastings go something like this: I’ll usually give you a short history of wine and then demonstrate how to get the most out of the tasting by teaching you how to use your senses to fully appreciate wine.  

Think in terms of the ‘five S.’s of wine appreciation: (1) sight – observe the wine and judge its clarity, color, etc; (2) swirl- rotate the wine in the glass to unlock the flavor and aroma; (3) sniff – place your proboscis deeply into the glass and smell and try to describe what you are smelling; (4) sip – my favorite part of the tasting where you roll the wine around in your mouth allowing it to touch all the surfaces; (5) swallow – judge the impressions the wine leaves when you swallow it.

Generally, a wine tasting will consist of examining six or seven wines beginning with lighter and sweeter wines and moving to fuller-bodied and dryer ones. Tasters should receive about one ounce of each wine so the total amount you drink over the course of the tasting approximates one full glass of wine.  

Tasters are encouraged to critically examine the color as well as the aroma and taste of each wine, and to render an opinion as to what they liked or disliked about a particular bottle.

After years of conducting these tastings, I have compiled a list of the most commonly asked questions and today I would like to share them, along with my answers to them, with you.  

What is the correct serving temperature of white and red wine?

White wine is best served from 45F to 55F except for
Champagne or sparkling wine which should be served around 40F. Red wine should be served between 58F and 65F. I usually put my reds in the refrigerator – particularly in summer – for about 15 minutes to cool them.

How do I know which wines will benefit from aging?

Most of the wine, both red and white, that is on the shelf for purchase is ready to drink now. Certain full-bodied reds such as cabernet sauvignon,  Bordeaux, Barolo, Brunello Di Montalcino, can benefit from bottle aging in exceptional vintage years. To determine which vintages and wines warrant aging, research them on the internet or read wine magazines or periodicals to find the information. A few whites such as Sauternes and other late-harvest sweet whites along with some chardonnays can benefit from extended bottle aging too.

Does the old axiom of white wine with fish and red wine with meat hold true?

Sometimes, but there are exceptions. For example, grilled tuna and salmon along with spicy grilled chicken are better accompanied by red wines. One rule I follow is the lighter the food, the lighter the wine and the fuller flavored the food, the fuller –bodied the wine. Vinegar based salad dressings are a no –no! Wine, with perhaps the exception of Sparklers, clashes with acidic dressings destroying the taste of both the wine and dressing.

 

Does decanting wine help improve its taste?

In my opinion, all wine, white and red, benefits from the aeration that decanting provides to wine. Exceptions are very old wines (those over twenty years old).You’ll also need to be careful to pour slowly and watch for sediment in the last few ounces of red wine.    

 

Should I be concerned about sulfites in wine?

Sulfites are used sparingly in the wine making process to prevent oxidation and assist in keeping the wine clean. People who have hyper-sensitivity to sulfites should speak with their physicians. By the time commercially produced wine is bottled, there should be no or only trace amounts of sulfites present.

How can you make white wine from red grapes?

Color in wine comes from the pigment in the grape’s skin. If you remove the skins from the juice of red grapes, the resulting wine will be white. For example, Champagne is made from the blending of two red grapes (pinot noir and pinot meunier) and one white (chardonnay) yet the resulting wine is white.

I’m sure you have many more questions about wine and I encourage to post them at the end of this blog and I’ll get back to you with the answers.

Thanksgiving WineBoy Picks


When I was growing up, one of our faithful family traditions involved enthusiastic discourse around the holiday dinner table. To the rare outsiders who were infrequently invited to our large family repasts, the decibel level of this “enthusiasm” must have been a bit disconcerting.

 

No subject was too grand, obscure or off limits. We would debate everything from presidential elections to the color of Aunt Agnes’ moustache, and those who prevailed usually did so through din rather than  eloquence.

 

So in keeping with family tradition, my brother and I have debated for decades the best wines to pair with Thanksgiving dinner. After exhaustive and sometimes heated discussions, we have come to the conclusion that almost every wine can marry nicely with some part of the Turkey Day meal.   Why? Listen up.

 

For years, I have written about the culinary versatility of turkey to be successfully paired with white or red, as well as light or full-bodied wines. The reason is this bird is blessed with meat that has different flavors, colors and textures. Add to this the way it is cooked - from traditional oven-baking, to deep frying, to grilling, to smoking (with hardwood such as apple)  -and you have even more wine choices from which to select.    

 

When you add stuffing to the turkey, you add a whole other flavor dimension which, depending upon the nature of the dressing, opens up even more wine possibilities. One year, for example, I stuffed a charcoal grilled turkey with cornbread, ancho chili peppers and chorizo sausage. What wine, you might ask, did I serve with this non-traditional turkey and stuffing?

 

Well, I started with Domaine Carneros sparkling wine as an aperitif, proceeded to open a bottle of Pierre Sparr Pinot Gris for those who preferred white wine, and a Ridge   Zinfandel for those who wanted a big red. And guess what, it worked. For dessert, I chose a bottle of Joseph Phelps Late Harvest riesling to accompany the  pumpkin pie, and then plopped on the couch to watch some team beat up on the Detroit Lions.

 

Here are a few wine-pairing suggestions, based upon cooking methods, for your Thanksgiving Day:

 

The traditional oven-roasted turkey with a mild dressing is very nicely accompanied by whites such as pinot grigo, sauvignon blanc or chardonnay, or reds such as pinot noir, Chianti Classico, or sangiovese. Older wines such as Bordeaux or California cabernet sauvignon go nicely as well. On the other hand, if you smoke or grill your bird, try full-bodied zinfandel, shiraz, cabernet sauvignon or even Brunello Di Montalcino.   

 

So what about my approach this year? Well, I plan to oven bake the critter and then stuff it with bread dressing flavored with Italian sausage, chestnuts, onion and celery.  I’ll start with a bottle of  Domaine Chandon Rose Sparkling Wine $20) for the aperitif, followed by a  2006 Montinore Estate Gewurztraminer from Oregon ($17) as well as 2005 Domaine Serene Evanstadt Reserve  ($60) (both of which will be poured with the main course). We’ll accompany the pumpkin pie with a sip or two of  Scrapona  Moscato ($22) and then let the tryptophan kick in.

           

Since Aunt Agnes shaved her moustache, the only thing left for me to decide is  the Thanksgiving dinner debate topic.    

 

Bon Appétit!

 

Sippin’ wine older than Howdy Doody!

Sippin’ wine older than Howdy Doody!

After rummaging around my very disorganized cellar for a suitably mature wine to pair with a celebratory meal, I came upon a bottle  which had obviously been lying in repose for quite some time. After blowing the dust off the label, I was incredulous to discover that the wine was a 1947 Borgono Barolo!

 

Say what?  That’s older than … Howdy Doody! (By the way, there is no truth to the rumor that Howdy Doody was the illegitimate result of a union between Little Orphan Annie and Pinocchio).

 

Anyway, it turns out my brother, who had prompted me to look in that particular area of the cellar and with whom I share a passion for the fruit of the vine, had years before slipped the Barolo into a nook instead of a cranny, and I was unaware I possessed this museum piece.   

 

I had actually consumed one other wine from that ancient vintage and, according to the  wine cognoscenti, it is perhaps the greatest Bordeaux ever produced. The 1947 Chateau Cheval Blanc was undoubtedly the best wine I had ever consumed, but I wasn’t expecting this wine (from the Piedmont region of Italy) to be anywhere near the quality of that legendary Bordeaux.

 

However, my recollection of Borgono Barolo is that I had uncorked a 1978 version of the wine a couple of years ago and had been surprised by its youthful flavors and amazing aging potential. But this wine was more than 30 years older than that wine. 

 

Since the wine actually belonged to my brother, I magnanimously sought his advice about when we should open it, knowing full well that we would need to stand the wine in an upright position for several days to assure that decades of sediment would settle to the bottom of the bottle. 

 

In its youth, Barolo is a purple monster with huge dollops of mouth-puckering tannin and searing acidity which can completely mask the earthy, rich flavors hidden underneath. There are some Barolo producers who are now making wines which are more approachable in their youth, but wines produced in the old-world style like the Borgono can improve for decades.  And so I had some hope that there would be something more than vinegar left in the bottle.

 

On the appointed day, I began to gingerly open the bottle with a traditional waiter’s corkscrew.  Mistake! Unfortunately, but not unexpectedly, the cork began to disintegrate as I attempted to pull it from the bottle. In fact, I was forced to push a hole through the cork so I could get to the wine. 

 

I should have used an “Ah-So” which is also known as a  “Butler’s Friend” to remove the cork.   The Ah-So is a twin-pronged device that is placed on either side of the cork and then rocked back and forth until the prongs grip the cork along the sides of the bottle. Once inserted, you pull and twist the Ah-So until the cork is removed.


 

 

Pouring the 1947 Barolo through a coffee filter!

 My unsatisfactory solution to the cork debris problem was to insert a coffee filter into the decanter and then pour the wine through it.  The problem here is the filter just might also strip out any flavors left in the wine. Also, as I poured the wine ever so slowly through the filter into the decanter, I was immediately concerned by the brownish-orange liquid that came out of the bottle.

 

I quickly poured myself a few ounces of the wine and put it to my nose.  At first, the Barolo had a pungent, almost unpleasant raisin/beet nose that slowly- over 15 minutes - morphed into an aroma redolent of earth, mint and prunes.  In the mouth, this amazing wine still had life with layered flavors of cola, caramel and spice with a solid acid backbone.  It was also silky smooth and continued to develop over the next hour that it took us to savor and consume the wine.

 

What a remarkable experience and one that I’ll always remember. It also reminded me of the reason we age wines from great regions in exceptionally good vintages.  In the meantime, you can enjoy that glass of ready-to-drink wine while both you and your special bottles mature.    

Some wines (and stuff) for your holiday gift giving


Well, here we are again faced with that most enjoyable of all dilemmas: what wine to get for that loved one, friend or you this holiday season.

 

Normally, the pressures of holiday shopping are both frustrating and exceedingly difficult for me, but not when it comes to wine gifting!  Why?  Well, for me, securing a quality selection of top wines for the holidays is a labor of love and today I’ll share my top picks that should meet just about every budget.  

 

Let’s start, though, with some non-vinous gift recommendations for those in need of wine accoutrements (that’s French for “stuff”), or other goodies that are not liquid.   

 

I just finished reading and really enjoyed ”The Billionaire’s Vinegar: The Mystery of the World’s Most Expensive Bottle of Wine” by Benjamin Wallace.  This real life mystery story  (which is still raging) recounts the alleged fraudulent sale of several bottles of 200- year old Chateau Lafite Rothschild to a billionaire who is bent on exacting pain from those he feels are responsible for the sham.  

 

The other book I suggest for your reading pleasure is “Wine and War:  The French, the Nazi’s and the Battle for France’s Greatest Treasure” by Donald and Petie Kladstrump.  This book recounts numerous stories of how individual French wine makers and their families fought to save their vineyards and wines from the invading Nazi’s. 

Both books are available in paperback and hard cover and can be found at local bookstores or ordered online.

 

There is nothing more pleasurable than sipping good wine from crystal stemware. You can spend a lot of money on wine glasses from renowned companies such as Riedel, or you can get similar quality by purchasing your wine glasses and crystal decanters right here in West Virginia. 

 

Masterpiece Crystal in Jane Lew  (96 Trolley St.) produces magnificent handmade lead-free crystal wine glasses and carafes.  Buy right from the showroom or go to masterpiececrystal.com and get them online. You may also place your order by phone (800-624-3114).   

 

Now to the good stuff.  The following wines are among my favorites and should be available in wine shops around the state.

 

White Wine  (under $20 a bottle):  07 d’Arenberg The Hermit Crab; 07 Pertinace Roreo Arneis; 06 Domaine Patient Cotat Sauvignon Blanc; 2008 Alexander Valley Chardonnay; Montinore Estate Almost Dry Riesling; 07 L’Ecole 41 Semillon; 07 Cakebread Chardonnay ($50); 07 Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay ($35); and 07 Talley Arroyo Grande Vineyard Chardonnay ($30);

 

Red Wine (under $20 a bottle) 07 Martin Codax Rioja; 06 Las Rocas Vinas Viejas Garnacha; 07 Ancient Peaks Zinfandel; 07 d”Arenberg The Stump Jump; 08 Castle Rock Pinot Noir (Mendocino); 07 Guenoc Petite Sirah; 07 Falesco Vitiano Rosso; 06 Monte Antico Rosso; Delas St. Esprit Cotes Du Rhone; 05 Geyser Peak Cabernet Sauvignon; 06 Domaine Serene Yamhill Cuvee ($45); 05 Falcor Sangiovese ($35); 05 Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($65) and 01 Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino ($67).

 

Here’s wishing you the happiest of holiday seasons, Cheers!

Wine is an acceptable water substitute !

Over the millennia, wine has proved to be an able and essential substitute for water. The Romans would regularly send troopers to plant vines and make wine years in advance of their invading armies to insure that they would have a safe and plentiful supply of wine (which is comprised mainly of water).

Remember the Biblical parable about the wedding feast where the attendees very quickly drank up all the hooch and one very special guest saved the day by changing large vats of water into wine?

Well, several years ago , I was a judge– now get this – at a water contest. Seven hours of drinking and judging municipal tap water, bottled water and sparkling water left my indelicate stomach even more distended than normal. Between frequent trips to the restroom, I longed for a miracle similar to the one performed 2000 years ago.

But really folks…. the town of Berkley Springs in the Eastern Panhandle puts on a first-class event that not only showcases waters from around the world, but also provides visitors with a hospitable experience second to none.

In a former life where I had the privilege of promoting West Virginia tourism, the good folks of Berkley Springs were a passionate group, always touting the virtues of the town, the springs and water that have made the place a magnet for weary travelers for hundreds of years.

I am happy to say they continue that passionate commitment and have transformed the town into a Mecca for spa enthusiasts who descend upon the community seeking the healing waters and a good massage. The Winter Festival of the Waters is the last full weekend in February and is truly a fun event in a lovely little eastern panhandle town.

Anyway, I enjoyed tasting many fine waters from around the world that long ago weekend, but I must declare, that for all its benefits, water is still an incomplete liquid! Fermented grape juice (or wine) is the perfect beverage, providing not only life-sustaining hydration, but also qualities that can transform an ordinary meal into something special or a dullard into a poet.

One liquid that is not incomplete is cabernet sauvignon – particularly this time of year when we’re looking for a wine with warmth, depth and body to accompany the hearty dishes of winter.

I recently had the pleasure of tasting the new release of the 2005 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley. Silver Oak Cellars produces only cabernet sauvignon and its two wines are produced from grapes grown in the Alexander Valley of Sonoma County and from those grown in Napa Valley. The 2005 vintage for cabernet in California is highly touted and the Alexander Valley clearly demonstrates the quality of this wonderful year.

Silver Oak wines are aged in American oak barrels for about 30 months and then bottled and aged for another 15 to 27 months before being released for sale. The 2005 Alexander Valley cabernet was released last summer to rave reviews and you can count me among those touting the wine.

The Napa, however, is a different wine. It will be released next month and is usually a more backward wine in its youth than the Alexander Valley. The Napa, if it follows tradition, will be fuller-bodied, deeper wine and should continue to improve in the bottle over the next decade.

The Alexander Valley retails for about $65 a bottle and while that’s a hefty price to pay for any wine, this one is worth it for that special occasion. Wines of this quality from the 2005 vintage are (believe it or not) fetching two and three times this price.

If you’re looking for wines that have some of the same type flavors for a more reasonable price, try these cabernet sauvignon-based wines: 2006 Franciscan Vineyard Napa Cabernet ($25); 2006 Sebastiani Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($18); 2007 Marques De Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon ($19); and 2007 El Portillo Cabernet Sauvignon ($14).