Columns by John

John Brown has been a wine and food columnist in West Virginia since the 1980’s. His regular columns appear in the Charleston (WV) Gazette-Mail under the title Vines & Vittles.

Wine Odds and Ends: Bistro Wine Dinner and Italian Fest Homemade Wine Contest

____________________ EVENT: Bridge Road Bistro Wine Dinner, Aug. 25, 2008 Those of you who enjoy the culinary artistry of Chef Paco Aceves of the Bridge Road Bistro and the lovely wines produced by locally-owned Napa Valley winery – Falcor – are in for a treat.

A special multi-course dinner with accompanying wines from Falcor will be held on Monday, Aug. 25 at 6 p.m. Ryan Bee, assistant wine maker at Falcor, will provide commentary on the wines. Check out the menu below:

Broiled Blue-point Oysters on the Half Shell, Spinach & Pickled Red Onion Salad, Bleu Cheese Foam

Spiced Duck & Porcini Mushroom Country Terrine, Baby Lola Rosa Greens with Heritage Farm Sour Cherries, Champagne Citrus Vinaigrette.

Slow Roasted Beef Short Ribs, Carrot Mousse & Smoked Asparagus, Truffled Potato Pirogue, Sauce Demi-Glace.

Chocolate Marquis, Vanilla Pear & Ginger sauce, Walnut Brittle.

SPACE IS LIMITED and reservations are required so if you’re interested in attending, you might want to call the good folks at Bridge Road at 304-720-3500.

____________________ EVENT: Italian Heritage Festival Wine Contest Wine has always been a part of my hometown’s (Clarksburg) Italian Heritage Festival and one event at the festival is near and dear to my heart: the home wine making contest. As a matter of fact, yours truly actually won first prize in the “dry red wine” category several years ago.

If you’re a home wine maker or if you just love the sometimes “unique” experience of tasting home made wine, you should boogey on up to C-burg for this fun event. Even if you don’t like the wine, it’s worth the trip to sample the incredible variety of Italian edibles at this wonderful fair.

The Homemade WineContest will be held Saturday, Aug. 30 at 1:00 p.m. at Washington Square on Washington Avenue. This event is sponsored by the W.Va. Department of Agriculture and Washington Square. If you want to participate in the contest, contact the Festival (304-622-7314) for details. WEBSITE: www.wvihf.com

RECOMMENDED: Palate-pleasing goodies you may wish to try…..

RECOMMENDED: Palate-pleasing goodies you may wish to try…..

I’ve had the pleasure of sipping a lot of really good wines lately, some of which I’ve recommended on the WineBoy Webcast. So, as your ever- accommodating wineaux, here are some vinous goodies for your consideration:

2006 Falesco Vitiano ($14)From the Italian state of Umbria, this blend of sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, is a medium-bodied red with loads of bright cherry flavors and nice balancing acidity. Year in and year out Vitiano is one of my favorite value-priced Italian wines. It should pair well with roasted meat dishes or pasta dressed in a light tomato sauce.

2006 Rombauer Napa Valley Chardonnay ($30)In recent years, I must admit to avoiding what I perceive to be “over-done and over-oaked” California chardonnay. It’s not that I don’t occasionally appreciate over-ripe, high alcohol chardonnay that has been aged in heavily toasted oak barrels. Well…. yes it is. And so when I put a glass of Rombauer Chardonnay to my lips recently I was expecting to dislike it. After all, it was from Napa and had been aged in oak for an extended period of time.

Surprise! It is a well-balanced chardonnay with -- yes -- a toasty oak component. Yet the wine is also full of ripe tropical fruit flavors that are balanced by excellent acidity. As a matter of fact, we drank this wine with pasta tossed in a sauce of scallops, arugula and pine nuts, and the combination was heavenly. This wine, produced from the cooler growing region of Carneros in southern Napa, has restored my faith in fuller-flavored chardonnay. Say hallelujah!

2004 Ferrari-Carano Sonoma Merlot ($25) I know it’s popular now to bash merlot, but I’ve never been one to kick a good wine when it’s down, particularly when the stuff is as good as this. First of all, 2004 was a very good vintage year for northern California reds. The Ferrari-Carano folks selected merlot from several different appellations in Sonoma County, including Alexander Valley, Russian River and Dry Creek, to make its wine. The result is a round, rich, full-flavored wine full of spicy, chocolate flavors with medium tannins that is enjoyable now, but will get better viognier.jpgover the next five or so years. This baby just begs to be married to a large slab of grilled, peppercorn encrusted red meat!

2006 Yalumba South Australia Viognier ($13) Viognier has become a nice alternative to some wines I call porch sippers – like riesling, Muscat or even gewürztraminer. This particular wine is finished with what seems to me like about a percent of residual sugar, but it also has some weight to it and the flavors of apricot and peach are intense. Try it as an aperitif before dinner or as an accompaniment to spicy stir fry or oriental dishes like Pad Thai.

2006 Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel ($20) One of the reasons I love zinfandel is that, while it is a full-flavored wine, it can be enjoyed in its youth. Big and juicy, the Seghesio is a symphony of blackberry, chocolate and mint tones that satisfies my hedonistic cravings (as far as wine goes) with flavors that explode on the palate. Nothing subtle here, but if you like “real” zinfandel, you’ll love this baby. And if you like grilled lamb (that had been marinating in a bath of olive oil, garlic, black peppercorns, rosemary and red wine for a day or so), you must wash it down with this wine.

Okay’s Needs Your Help - NOW!

One of the most unique individuals I've ever met, Kay Dillon, is proprietor of Okay's at 222 Leon Sullivan Way in Charleston. Kay is not only one of the most informed bar-keeps I've ever encountered, she is also a trained psychologist (which I feel should be a pre-requisite for tending bar), caring mother, devotee of music and all the arts, and just an all around wonderful lady.

Okay's is more than just a bar. It is a state of mind and a little oasis where you can whet your whistle, engage in some great conversation or just sit at the bar and watch Miss Kay flit from table to bar, to table greeting, hugging, serving, schmoozing and generally doing what only she can do at a pace which is at once dizzying and bewildering.

In the short time she has been associated with Okay's (and the predessor business, Blues Barbecue), Kay has served the most comprehensive variety of beers of any place I've visited in this state. And her wine selections are both eclectic and well thought out with an emphasis on quality and value. Oh, by the way, her pizza is excellent too!

Unfortunately, Okay's is in peril of closing. Through a series of personal misfortunes Kay has experienced in recent months, Okay's is in dire need of your immediate patronage if the establishment is to survive. I hope all my readers and friends will come in to Okay's soon, belly up to the bar, drink in the atmosphere (she has live music too), sip a beer or glass of wine and have some really good food.

Our town needs Okay's!

The French: You don’t have to like their attitude to like their wine!

The French:  You don’t have to like their attitude to like their wine!

French wine map from this website. Click for more info. I often poke fun at the French for their superior attitude when it comes to anything having to do with wine and other gastronomic treats. In fact, some of our Gallic friends seem to think the term connoisseur (which is a French word after all) should only be used to describe their fellow countrymen. While these traits could be described as arrogance, I prefer to give the French the benefit of the doubt ( even though my sometimes guest on the WineBoy webcast -- Pierre N’Cest Pas -- seems to embody the snobby, overbearing French wine bore that we all love to hate. Check out the latest WineBoy (episode 26) and you’ll see what I mean.

But to be fair, we should acknowledge the tremendous contributions the French have made to wine. Their innovations in the vineyard and cellar for the past several hundred years have been the foundation and catalyst for the dynamic growth of the wine industry in the rest of the world. And their many world famous wines continue to command the greatest respect of wine lovers everywhere.

So today, we’ll take a quick look at the major wine -producing regions in that land of vines and tell you about the principal grape varieties that produce some of the world’s greatest wine. There are ten distinct wine appellations in France and hundreds of smaller sub-regions within those broader areas.

Bordeaux In this most famous of all wine regions in the world, you’ll find the most sought after wines anywhere. The reds are usually blends of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec while the whites are comprised of sauvignon blanc and semillon.

BurgundyIn days of yore, we thought Burgundy was a big red wine in a big green jug. Of course, Burgundy is a very renowned wine region where some of the greatest red and white wine is produced. In the northern part of Burgundy, the red wine is pinot noir and the white is chardonnay and just a small amount of pinot blanc. In southern Burgundy in the Beaujolais region, the red grape is gamay.

Champagne Interestingly, two-thirds of the grapes that produce Champagne are comprised of pinot noir and pinot meunier – both red grapes. The white grape of the region is chardonnay, which is blended with the two reds to make this lovely bubbly.

Alsace In Alsace, the only red grape produced is pinot noir which is just a drop in the very large bucket of white wines for which the region is known. These wines are pinot blanc, pinot gris, riesling, gewürztraminer, and sylvanner. RhoneThe Rhone Valley begins just south of Lyon and extends south to near the city of Avignon. The most famous reds of the Rhone are syrah, grenache, mourvedre and carignan. The principal white grapes are clairette, grenache blanc, marsanne, rousanne and viognier.

Loire The Chateau country of the Loire Valley is a beautiful region where white wine is more prominent than red. The whites of chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc along with the less famous melon comprise the famous wines of the Loire. The main red wine is called Chinon and is made from cabernet franc.

Languedoc Roussillon Located in the south central part of France along the Mediterranean coast, this very warm region has in recent years produced surprisingly excellent wines at value prices. The reds are carignan, syrah, Grenache and cabernet sauvignon while the main white grapes are clairette, marsanne and rousanne.

Provence Directly to the east of Languedoc, much of Provence lies along the French Riviera. Red wines (and roses) produced in the region are made from grenache, syrah, and mourvedre. The whites are comprised of ugni blanc and clairette.

Southwest The wines of the Southwest are also finding their way to our shores particularly reds such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. White wines are made from sauvignon blanc and Semillon.

NOTE: To see some of the wines of these regions, watch the latest WineBoy webcast.

The Whites of Spring

The Whites of Spring

Photo (at right): Arneis, which is produced in the Piedmont region of Italy, is a crisp white with green apple flavors and a sprightly touch of fizz A note to “Red Wine Nation:” White wines are good and getting better!

I feel the need to make this declarative statement because there is a growing sentiment among some wine drinkers (mostly those who are new to the fold) that white wine is an inferior product and, except for the occasional bottle of chardonnay, is not to be considered seriously.

Those of you who read my words on wine know that I will never tell you what you should drink. If you want to match that hunk of filet mignon with a jug of Vito’s Thunder Mountain Red, so be it. However, if you think Vito’s elixir has no peer, you might want to buy a bottle of witch hazel which is probably slightly better. The point is: if you think you’ve found wine Nirvana, you haven’t because there are always pleasant surprises to be discovered in the world of wine.

That’s why I get upset when someone claims to be a “red wine only” advocate. For instance, these folks are happy to slurp down a bottle of full-bodied, high alcohol, young California cabernet sauvignon (without food ) as a pre- dinner cocktail. They revel in their “trophy” wines and rationalize their overindulgence by proclaiming the healthful effects of drinking red wine (their credo: if a little bit of red wine is good for you, then a lot of it must be even better).

Health issues aside, if you’re limiting yourself to just red – or just white – or just cabernet… well, you’re missing out on one of the most important, enjoyable and enlightening aspects of wine appreciation: the exploration and discovery of new wines.

For example, I recently had the delightful pleasure of sipping a glass of Torrontes, a white wine from Argentina which is now slowly making its way to the US and will be in our fair state in the near future.

For me, Torrontes is kind of like a cross between viognier, muscat and sauvignon blanc. It has peach, herbs and mineral flavors and a good balance between fruit and acid, making it a nice accompaniment to oriental dishes and spicy foods.

You might also look for Arneis, which is produced in the Piedmont region of Italy and is a crisp white with green apple flavors and a sprightly touch of fizz on the finish. Plainly cooked seafood is a superb match for this wine.

Another white worth seeking out is semillon (pronounced semi-on). Made famous as the most expensive sweet wine on earth (Chateau d’yquem), most semillon is made as a dry table wine.

L’Ecole No.41 Semillon from Washington State is one of my favorites. It’s a lovely, crisp, yet rich white that exhibits a stony, mineral nuance and round flavors of peach and figs. Try it with chicken breasts stuffed with sun dried tomatoes and gruyere cheese.

Earlier this month, I conducted a tasting which I called the “The Whites of Spring.” With warmer weather making its appearance, I usually opt for wines – either white or red – that are lighter. It just seems to fit this time of year. I selected these particular wines to demonstrate the wide variety of excellent whites available in West Virginia. Here are a few for your consideration.

2006 Beringer Gewurztraminer ($9) - This Gewurztraminer’s delicate balance of spicy aromas and floral and citrus flavors is enhanced by a long, cool fermentation. Try it as a porch sipper with cheese and fruit or with Thai food.crossins-newzeal-sav-blanc.jpg 2006 Martín Códax Albariño $(11) -Albarino from Spain is terrific white that exudes richness, yet it is crisp with flavors of melon and herbs with an underlying minerality. Kind of like sauvignon blanc without the grassiness. Great with lemon sole.

2007 The Crossings Sauvignon Blanc ($17) – This wine from New Zealand (photo at right) fairly bursts on the palate with a refreshing zing! What’s a zing? Well, I guess you could say it’s beyond fresh and crisp with ripe citrus and melon flavors that excite the palate. Pasta dressed in a pesto comprised of basil, extra virgin olive oil, garlic, parmigiano reggiano and pine nuts would provide the perfect match for The Crossings.