I’ve had the pleasure of sipping a lot of really good wines lately, some of which I’ve recommended on the WineBoy Webcast. So, as your ever- accommodating wineaux, here are some vinous goodies for your consideration:

2006 Falesco Vitiano ($14)From the Italian state of Umbria, this blend of sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, is a medium-bodied red with loads of bright cherry flavors and nice balancing acidity. Year in and year out Vitiano is one of my favorite value-priced Italian wines. It should pair well with roasted meat dishes or pasta dressed in a light tomato sauce.

2006 Rombauer Napa Valley Chardonnay ($30)In recent years, I must admit to avoiding what I perceive to be “over-done and over-oaked” California chardonnay. It’s not that I don’t occasionally appreciate over-ripe, high alcohol chardonnay that has been aged in heavily toasted oak barrels. Well…. yes it is. And so when I put a glass of Rombauer Chardonnay to my lips recently I was expecting to dislike it. After all, it was from Napa and had been aged in oak for an extended period of time.

Surprise! It is a well-balanced chardonnay with -- yes -- a toasty oak component. Yet the wine is also full of ripe tropical fruit flavors that are balanced by excellent acidity. As a matter of fact, we drank this wine with pasta tossed in a sauce of scallops, arugula and pine nuts, and the combination was heavenly. This wine, produced from the cooler growing region of Carneros in southern Napa, has restored my faith in fuller-flavored chardonnay. Say hallelujah!

2004 Ferrari-Carano Sonoma Merlot ($25) I know it’s popular now to bash merlot, but I’ve never been one to kick a good wine when it’s down, particularly when the stuff is as good as this. First of all, 2004 was a very good vintage year for northern California reds. The Ferrari-Carano folks selected merlot from several different appellations in Sonoma County, including Alexander Valley, Russian River and Dry Creek, to make its wine. The result is a round, rich, full-flavored wine full of spicy, chocolate flavors with medium tannins that is enjoyable now, but will get better over the next five or so years. This baby just begs to be married to a large slab of grilled, peppercorn encrusted red meat!

2006 Yalumba South Australia Viognier ($13) Viognier has become a nice alternative to some wines I call porch sippers – like riesling, Muscat or even gewürztraminer. This particular wine is finished with what seems to me like about a percent of residual sugar, but it also has some weight to it and the flavors of apricot and peach are intense. Try it as an aperitif before dinner or as an accompaniment to spicy stir fry or oriental dishes like Pad Thai.

2006 Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel ($20) One of the reasons I love zinfandel is that, while it is a full-flavored wine, it can be enjoyed in its youth. Big and juicy, the Seghesio is a symphony of blackberry, chocolate and mint tones that satisfies my hedonistic cravings (as far as wine goes) with flavors that explode on the palate. Nothing subtle here, but if you like “real” zinfandel, you’ll love this baby. And if you like grilled lamb (that had been marinating in a bath of olive oil, garlic, black peppercorns, rosemary and red wine for a day or so), you must wash it down with this wine.

One of the most unique individuals I've ever met, Kay Dillon, is proprietor of Okay's at 222 Leon Sullivan Way in Charleston. Kay is not only one of the most informed bar-keeps I've ever encountered, she is also a trained psychologist (which I feel should be a pre-requisite for tending bar), caring mother, devotee of music and all the arts, and just an all around wonderful lady.

Okay's is more than just a bar. It is a state of mind and a little oasis where you can whet your whistle, engage in some great conversation or just sit at the bar and watch Miss Kay flit from table to bar, to table greeting, hugging, serving, schmoozing and generally doing what only she can do at a pace which is at once dizzying and bewildering.

In the short time she has been associated with Okay's (and the predessor business, Blues Barbecue), Kay has served the most comprehensive variety of beers of any place I've visited in this state. And her wine selections are both eclectic and well thought out with an emphasis on quality and value. Oh, by the way, her pizza is excellent too!

Unfortunately, Okay's is in peril of closing. Through a series of personal misfortunes Kay has experienced in recent months, Okay's is in dire need of your immediate patronage if the establishment is to survive. I hope all my readers and friends will come in to Okay's soon, belly up to the bar, drink in the atmosphere (she has live music too), sip a beer or glass of wine and have some really good food.

Our town needs Okay's!

French wine map from this website. Click for more info. I often poke fun at the French for their superior attitude when it comes to anything having to do with wine and other gastronomic treats. In fact, some of our Gallic friends seem to think the term connoisseur (which is a French word after all) should only be used to describe their fellow countrymen. While these traits could be described as arrogance, I prefer to give the French the benefit of the doubt ( even though my sometimes guest on the WineBoy webcast -- Pierre N’Cest Pas -- seems to embody the snobby, overbearing French wine bore that we all love to hate. Check out the latest WineBoy (episode 26) and you’ll see what I mean.

But to be fair, we should acknowledge the tremendous contributions the French have made to wine. Their innovations in the vineyard and cellar for the past several hundred years have been the foundation and catalyst for the dynamic growth of the wine industry in the rest of the world. And their many world famous wines continue to command the greatest respect of wine lovers everywhere.

So today, we’ll take a quick look at the major wine -producing regions in that land of vines and tell you about the principal grape varieties that produce some of the world’s greatest wine. There are ten distinct wine appellations in France and hundreds of smaller sub-regions within those broader areas.

Bordeaux In this most famous of all wine regions in the world, you’ll find the most sought after wines anywhere. The reds are usually blends of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec while the whites are comprised of sauvignon blanc and semillon.

BurgundyIn days of yore, we thought Burgundy was a big red wine in a big green jug. Of course, Burgundy is a very renowned wine region where some of the greatest red and white wine is produced. In the northern part of Burgundy, the red wine is pinot noir and the white is chardonnay and just a small amount of pinot blanc. In southern Burgundy in the Beaujolais region, the red grape is gamay.

Champagne Interestingly, two-thirds of the grapes that produce Champagne are comprised of pinot noir and pinot meunier – both red grapes. The white grape of the region is chardonnay, which is blended with the two reds to make this lovely bubbly.

Alsace In Alsace, the only red grape produced is pinot noir which is just a drop in the very large bucket of white wines for which the region is known. These wines are pinot blanc, pinot gris, riesling, gewürztraminer, and sylvanner. RhoneThe Rhone Valley begins just south of Lyon and extends south to near the city of Avignon. The most famous reds of the Rhone are syrah, grenache, mourvedre and carignan. The principal white grapes are clairette, grenache blanc, marsanne, rousanne and viognier.

Loire The Chateau country of the Loire Valley is a beautiful region where white wine is more prominent than red. The whites of chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc along with the less famous melon comprise the famous wines of the Loire. The main red wine is called Chinon and is made from cabernet franc.

Languedoc Roussillon Located in the south central part of France along the Mediterranean coast, this very warm region has in recent years produced surprisingly excellent wines at value prices. The reds are carignan, syrah, Grenache and cabernet sauvignon while the main white grapes are clairette, marsanne and rousanne.

Provence Directly to the east of Languedoc, much of Provence lies along the French Riviera. Red wines (and roses) produced in the region are made from grenache, syrah, and mourvedre. The whites are comprised of ugni blanc and clairette.

Southwest The wines of the Southwest are also finding their way to our shores particularly reds such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. White wines are made from sauvignon blanc and Semillon.

NOTE: To see some of the wines of these regions, watch the latest WineBoy webcast.

Photo (at right): Arneis, which is produced in the Piedmont region of Italy, is a crisp white with green apple flavors and a sprightly touch of fizz A note to “Red Wine Nation:” White wines are good and getting better!

I feel the need to make this declarative statement because there is a growing sentiment among some wine drinkers (mostly those who are new to the fold) that white wine is an inferior product and, except for the occasional bottle of chardonnay, is not to be considered seriously.

Those of you who read my words on wine know that I will never tell you what you should drink. If you want to match that hunk of filet mignon with a jug of Vito’s Thunder Mountain Red, so be it. However, if you think Vito’s elixir has no peer, you might want to buy a bottle of witch hazel which is probably slightly better. The point is: if you think you’ve found wine Nirvana, you haven’t because there are always pleasant surprises to be discovered in the world of wine.

That’s why I get upset when someone claims to be a “red wine only” advocate. For instance, these folks are happy to slurp down a bottle of full-bodied, high alcohol, young California cabernet sauvignon (without food ) as a pre- dinner cocktail. They revel in their “trophy” wines and rationalize their overindulgence by proclaiming the healthful effects of drinking red wine (their credo: if a little bit of red wine is good for you, then a lot of it must be even better).

Health issues aside, if you’re limiting yourself to just red – or just white – or just cabernet… well, you’re missing out on one of the most important, enjoyable and enlightening aspects of wine appreciation: the exploration and discovery of new wines.

For example, I recently had the delightful pleasure of sipping a glass of Torrontes, a white wine from Argentina which is now slowly making its way to the US and will be in our fair state in the near future.

For me, Torrontes is kind of like a cross between viognier, muscat and sauvignon blanc. It has peach, herbs and mineral flavors and a good balance between fruit and acid, making it a nice accompaniment to oriental dishes and spicy foods.

You might also look for Arneis, which is produced in the Piedmont region of Italy and is a crisp white with green apple flavors and a sprightly touch of fizz on the finish. Plainly cooked seafood is a superb match for this wine.

Another white worth seeking out is semillon (pronounced semi-on). Made famous as the most expensive sweet wine on earth (Chateau d’yquem), most semillon is made as a dry table wine.

L’Ecole No.41 Semillon from Washington State is one of my favorites. It’s a lovely, crisp, yet rich white that exhibits a stony, mineral nuance and round flavors of peach and figs. Try it with chicken breasts stuffed with sun dried tomatoes and gruyere cheese.

Earlier this month, I conducted a tasting which I called the “The Whites of Spring.” With warmer weather making its appearance, I usually opt for wines – either white or red – that are lighter. It just seems to fit this time of year. I selected these particular wines to demonstrate the wide variety of excellent whites available in West Virginia. Here are a few for your consideration.

2006 Beringer Gewurztraminer ($9) - This Gewurztraminer’s delicate balance of spicy aromas and floral and citrus flavors is enhanced by a long, cool fermentation. Try it as a porch sipper with cheese and fruit or with Thai food. 2006 Martín Códax Albariño $(11) -Albarino from Spain is terrific white that exudes richness, yet it is crisp with flavors of melon and herbs with an underlying minerality. Kind of like sauvignon blanc without the grassiness. Great with lemon sole.

2007 The Crossings Sauvignon Blanc ($17) – This wine from New Zealand (photo at right) fairly bursts on the palate with a refreshing zing! What’s a zing? Well, I guess you could say it’s beyond fresh and crisp with ripe citrus and melon flavors that excite the palate. Pasta dressed in a pesto comprised of basil, extra virgin olive oil, garlic, parmigiano reggiano and pine nuts would provide the perfect match for The Crossings.

Inspiration is a wonderful thing! After attending a spectacular wine dinner at the Bridge Road Bistro recently, I was inspired by the culinary virtuosity of chef Paco Aceves to create my own plebeian version of gastronomic heaven. It's a dish I’ll call “Doin the Spicy Chicken.”

If you’re old enough, you probably remember doing the “Funky Chicken.” While that dance required a few nimble moves, laying down steps for the Spicy Chicken is a lot easier, and today I’m going to tell you how. I’m also going to suggest a few wines that will not only tame that chicken, but also enhance the flavors of this nifty little dish. If you haven’t done so already, it is definitely time to dust off the old grill and get ready to barbeque some de-feathered edibles! Here’s how:

Doin' the Spicy Chicken Recipe 1. Buy two frying chickens, remove those unspeakable parts from the cavity and cut off any excess chicken fat.

2. Then work a long, thin, boning knife under the skin of the chicken (all over if possible) and create pockets between this skin and the meat.

3. Now mix together a teaspoon each of chili powder, salt, black pepper, cayenne pepper, cumin. Add to this mixture three tablespoons of olive oil and three finely chopped garlic cloves. This should have a pasty consistency.

4. With a small spoon, put about half the mixture under the skin of the chickens. Rub the rest inside the cavity and all over the outside of the chicken.

5. Prepare one-half cup each of wild rice and brown rice separately. Follow the instructions on the package for preparation of the rice. When cooked, blend the rice together and put to the side to cool.

6. In a sauté pan, heat four tablespoons of olive oil and add one-half cup each of chopped onion, green pepper and celery.

7. Finely dice one jalapeno pepper and add to the pan three ounces of slivered almonds.

8. Sauté the mixture for about seven minutes and mix with the rice. Salt and pepper to taste.

9. When the rice mixture reaches room temperature, stuff the chickens and prepare your grill.

10. If you have a charcoal grill, move the hot coals to either side of the kettle and put the chickens in the center (not directly over the coals) and put the cover on the grill. With a gas grill, just light one side and place the chickens on the other side.

11. When the wings pull easily from the bird (usually after about one hour) the chicken is cooked and you’ve done the Spicy Chicken!

SO, WHICH WINES will not only stand up to this spicy bird, but also enhance enjoyment of the overall meal? Here are three that will do the trick.

2004 Palazzo Della Torre ($22) – This zinfandel-like red (photo at right)  from the Veneto region of Italy takes Valpolicella to a whole new level of intensity. Rich, robust and full of dark fruit flavors, this wine is an excellent choice with the dish.

Cristalino Cava Brut ($12) – Cava is the term for sparkling wine in Spain and, while it is made in the Champagne method, it is lighter, less complex and more sprightly than the stuff from France. The Cristalino not only cuts through the spiciness of the dish, it also provides a thirst-quenching element along with green apple flavors and crisp acidity.

2005 Barossa Jack Shiraz ($14) – Named after his Jack Russell terrier, the winemaker at Barossa Jack has made a wine that is definitely no dog. This baby has a nice balance of dark fruit flavors, spice and acidity that will marry with our spicy chicken.