Columns by John

John Brown has been a wine and food columnist in West Virginia since the 1980’s. His regular columns appear in the Charleston (WV) Gazette-Mail under the title Vines & Vittles.

WINE EVENT: Cinnabar Bistro Bash, April 20

This is definitely the season to enjoy special wine dinners hosted by some of the best chefs in our state. I just returned from an excellent wine and food event at Canaan Valley Resort, where Chef Nemat Odeh worked his culinary magic. I’m happy to report that your next opportunity to sup and savor is on April 20, at Bridge Road Bistro in South Hills.

The Bistro is the culinary brain child of renowned chef Robert Wong, who seems to be on an evangelical mission to bring good food and wine to West Virginians in just about every hamlet and holler in this wild and wonderful state. (In addition to the Bistro, he has opened restaurants at Snowshoe, Glade Springs, Charleston, Beckley and Morgantown.) The April 20 event will feature a specially prepared menu by Bistro chef Paco Aceves and the wines of Cinnabar Vineyards in California. Rob Crandall, representing Cinnabar, will provide commentary on the wines selected for the dinner. If you’re interested in attending, contact Amy Sue Gates at the Bistro at 720-3500 for pricing and reservations. Here is the menu with accompanying wines.

Appetizers: Cinnabar, Mercury Rising Blanc, California, 2006 Smoked Salmon, Avocado & Sprouts with Wasabi Aioli Lemon-Dijon Tuna Tartare , Kiwi Citrus Grilled Scallop and Mini Crab Cake on Toasted Focaccia 1st Course: Cinnabar, Chardonnay, Monterey County, 2005Soft Shell Crab wrapped in Prosciutto, Morgan Country Honey and Lavender Aioli Baby Celery

2nd Course: Cinnabar, Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains, 2005 Vanilla Apple Brined Muscovy Duck Breast, Plum Tart, Baby Lettuces Blackberry Vinaigrette

3rd Course: Cinnabar, Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 2003Cappuccino Crusted Venison Loin, Smoked Forest Mushroom and Leek Flan, Tomato Relish & Black Truffle Risotto stuffed Baby Squash

4th Course: Cinnabar, Late Harvest Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, 2006 Poached Vanilla Pear stuffed with Frangipane Couverture Swiss Chocolate, Toasted Almonds

Wherefore Art Thou, WineBoy (the Webcast)?!

Let me address a question I’ve gotten from a whole lot of you regarding the status of WineBoy – the webcast. As many of you have noted, it has been quite a while since we’ve abused the Internet with the rantings of Spud Dumplin, Umberto Lupini and Sir Reginald Winesot Clydesdale. The simple reason is resources. It takes considerable time to shoot, edit and present these exquisite productions and my good friends at the Gazette must prioritize how these resources are allocated.

In the larger scheme of producing a daily newspaper, WineBoy takes a back seat to the need for the Gazette to produce news-related video. I hope at some point we’ll be able to resume a somewhat regular schedule of Webcasts in the future, but that depends on a whole lot of considerations out of my control.

In the meantime, you can still catch some of the WineBoy webcasts at the links in past posts. After all, most of the shows have timeless content related to the world of wine. We might even index the shows we’ve already produced and make them available at the WineBoy website. Let me (and the Gazette) know what you think.

Wine Odds and Ends: Bistro Wine Dinner and Italian Fest Homemade Wine Contest

____________________ EVENT: Bridge Road Bistro Wine Dinner, Aug. 25, 2008 Those of you who enjoy the culinary artistry of Chef Paco Aceves of the Bridge Road Bistro and the lovely wines produced by locally-owned Napa Valley winery – Falcor – are in for a treat.

A special multi-course dinner with accompanying wines from Falcor will be held on Monday, Aug. 25 at 6 p.m. Ryan Bee, assistant wine maker at Falcor, will provide commentary on the wines. Check out the menu below:

Broiled Blue-point Oysters on the Half Shell, Spinach & Pickled Red Onion Salad, Bleu Cheese Foam

Spiced Duck & Porcini Mushroom Country Terrine, Baby Lola Rosa Greens with Heritage Farm Sour Cherries, Champagne Citrus Vinaigrette.

Slow Roasted Beef Short Ribs, Carrot Mousse & Smoked Asparagus, Truffled Potato Pirogue, Sauce Demi-Glace.

Chocolate Marquis, Vanilla Pear & Ginger sauce, Walnut Brittle.

SPACE IS LIMITED and reservations are required so if you’re interested in attending, you might want to call the good folks at Bridge Road at 304-720-3500.

____________________ EVENT: Italian Heritage Festival Wine Contest Wine has always been a part of my hometown’s (Clarksburg) Italian Heritage Festival and one event at the festival is near and dear to my heart: the home wine making contest. As a matter of fact, yours truly actually won first prize in the “dry red wine” category several years ago.

If you’re a home wine maker or if you just love the sometimes “unique” experience of tasting home made wine, you should boogey on up to C-burg for this fun event. Even if you don’t like the wine, it’s worth the trip to sample the incredible variety of Italian edibles at this wonderful fair.

The Homemade WineContest will be held Saturday, Aug. 30 at 1:00 p.m. at Washington Square on Washington Avenue. This event is sponsored by the W.Va. Department of Agriculture and Washington Square. If you want to participate in the contest, contact the Festival (304-622-7314) for details. WEBSITE: www.wvihf.com

RECOMMENDED: Palate-pleasing goodies you may wish to try…..

RECOMMENDED: Palate-pleasing goodies you may wish to try…..

I’ve had the pleasure of sipping a lot of really good wines lately, some of which I’ve recommended on the WineBoy Webcast. So, as your ever- accommodating wineaux, here are some vinous goodies for your consideration:

2006 Falesco Vitiano ($14)From the Italian state of Umbria, this blend of sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, is a medium-bodied red with loads of bright cherry flavors and nice balancing acidity. Year in and year out Vitiano is one of my favorite value-priced Italian wines. It should pair well with roasted meat dishes or pasta dressed in a light tomato sauce.

2006 Rombauer Napa Valley Chardonnay ($30)In recent years, I must admit to avoiding what I perceive to be “over-done and over-oaked” California chardonnay. It’s not that I don’t occasionally appreciate over-ripe, high alcohol chardonnay that has been aged in heavily toasted oak barrels. Well…. yes it is. And so when I put a glass of Rombauer Chardonnay to my lips recently I was expecting to dislike it. After all, it was from Napa and had been aged in oak for an extended period of time.

Surprise! It is a well-balanced chardonnay with -- yes -- a toasty oak component. Yet the wine is also full of ripe tropical fruit flavors that are balanced by excellent acidity. As a matter of fact, we drank this wine with pasta tossed in a sauce of scallops, arugula and pine nuts, and the combination was heavenly. This wine, produced from the cooler growing region of Carneros in southern Napa, has restored my faith in fuller-flavored chardonnay. Say hallelujah!

2004 Ferrari-Carano Sonoma Merlot ($25) I know it’s popular now to bash merlot, but I’ve never been one to kick a good wine when it’s down, particularly when the stuff is as good as this. First of all, 2004 was a very good vintage year for northern California reds. The Ferrari-Carano folks selected merlot from several different appellations in Sonoma County, including Alexander Valley, Russian River and Dry Creek, to make its wine. The result is a round, rich, full-flavored wine full of spicy, chocolate flavors with medium tannins that is enjoyable now, but will get better viognier.jpgover the next five or so years. This baby just begs to be married to a large slab of grilled, peppercorn encrusted red meat!

2006 Yalumba South Australia Viognier ($13) Viognier has become a nice alternative to some wines I call porch sippers – like riesling, Muscat or even gewürztraminer. This particular wine is finished with what seems to me like about a percent of residual sugar, but it also has some weight to it and the flavors of apricot and peach are intense. Try it as an aperitif before dinner or as an accompaniment to spicy stir fry or oriental dishes like Pad Thai.

2006 Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel ($20) One of the reasons I love zinfandel is that, while it is a full-flavored wine, it can be enjoyed in its youth. Big and juicy, the Seghesio is a symphony of blackberry, chocolate and mint tones that satisfies my hedonistic cravings (as far as wine goes) with flavors that explode on the palate. Nothing subtle here, but if you like “real” zinfandel, you’ll love this baby. And if you like grilled lamb (that had been marinating in a bath of olive oil, garlic, black peppercorns, rosemary and red wine for a day or so), you must wash it down with this wine.

Okay’s Needs Your Help - NOW!

One of the most unique individuals I've ever met, Kay Dillon, is proprietor of Okay's at 222 Leon Sullivan Way in Charleston. Kay is not only one of the most informed bar-keeps I've ever encountered, she is also a trained psychologist (which I feel should be a pre-requisite for tending bar), caring mother, devotee of music and all the arts, and just an all around wonderful lady.

Okay's is more than just a bar. It is a state of mind and a little oasis where you can whet your whistle, engage in some great conversation or just sit at the bar and watch Miss Kay flit from table to bar, to table greeting, hugging, serving, schmoozing and generally doing what only she can do at a pace which is at once dizzying and bewildering.

In the short time she has been associated with Okay's (and the predessor business, Blues Barbecue), Kay has served the most comprehensive variety of beers of any place I've visited in this state. And her wine selections are both eclectic and well thought out with an emphasis on quality and value. Oh, by the way, her pizza is excellent too!

Unfortunately, Okay's is in peril of closing. Through a series of personal misfortunes Kay has experienced in recent months, Okay's is in dire need of your immediate patronage if the establishment is to survive. I hope all my readers and friends will come in to Okay's soon, belly up to the bar, drink in the atmosphere (she has live music too), sip a beer or glass of wine and have some really good food.

Our town needs Okay's!