John Brown has been a wine and food columnist in West Virginia since the 1980’s. His regular columns appear in the Charleston (WV) Gazette-Mail under the title Vines & Vittles and in The State Journal - a statewide business weekly
Spring wines and a Toast to Moldova
Just recently, I had the pleasure of sipping three wines I think you might find enjoyable, especially when paired with the dishes I’m also suggesting.
2019 St. Supery Dollarhide Sauvignon Blanc ($32) – The Dollarhide vineyard is nestled in the mountains on the eastern slopes of the Napa Valley. Cool evening temperatures allow this sauvignon blanc to develop flavors of citrus and anise with nuances of vanilla from oak aging. It is a rich, but well-balanced wine, that will show best when paired with one of my favorite springtime dishes: pasta with sauteed ramps and asparagus sauced with a half cup of the sauvignon blanc, olive oil, and sprinkled liberally with parmesan cheese and red pepper flakes.
2019 J. Lohr Seven Oaks Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($18) – From Paso Robles along California’s Central Coast, the Seven Oaks cabernet is full of dark cherry and cola flavors. It is deep and rich with noticeable tannin, but it’s still very drinkable right now. I paired the wine with grilled pork tenderloin brushed with a cumin and honey glaze.
2019 Martin Ray Vineyards Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($21)) – This medium-bodied, silky smooth wine has flavors of ripe, red cherries with hints of Asian spices. It also has a lovely balance of richness and acidity which makes it an excellent match to foods with some sweet and heat notes such as Pad Thai or barbecue chicken mopped with a sriracha infused sauce.
I’ve always considered grape growing and winemaking as activities that help bring the diverse peoples of our planet together. Despite our ethnic, cultural or political differences, the fruit of the vine has always offered a figurative bridge between countries, allowing us the opportunity to literally toast one other.
But the devastating carnage inflicted on Ukraine by that barbarian in the Kremlin has cast a pall on the mostly cordial and respectful relationships that the nations of the world have enjoyed for decades. I am particularly concerned for Moldova, a small, poor country that borders a large swath of Ukraine. Unfortunately, the geographic location of Moldova puts its continued existence in jeopardy. Unlike its neighbors in the region, Romania and Slovakia, Moldova is not a member of NATO and therefore does not enjoy the protections of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization.
Several years ago, I was privileged to be among several West Virginians to meet a travelling delegation of business and government officials from Moldova, a country that has a long tradition of winemaking dating back centuries. One of the visitors was a woman winemaker, and I was impressed with the wines she brought along for us to sample. I remember liking the white wines somewhat better than the reds, but all of them were very drinkable.
This small country, which was formerly part of the Soviet Union, surprisingly has more vines per capita than any other country on earth. As you would expect, most of the Moldovan wines are made from obscure, native varieties such as Viorica, a Muscat-like white, and reds such as Aurore Rara Negro which is similar to pinot noir. The country also produces value-oriented traditional varietals like pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and merlot.
I fear for the people of Moldova who find themselves on the border of a country being brutalized. I’m sure Moldovan citizens are wondering if they will be the next domino to fall. So, in a gesture of solidarity with Moldova, and all the countries in that increasingly dangerous part of the world, I’m going to order some Moldovan wine, and then I’ll raise a glass to them and pray they will remain a free and sovereign nation.
If you would like to try the wines of Moldova, you can order them online at https://wineofmoldovausa.com/wine/
John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book Augie’s World, which is a sequel to his debut novel, Augie’s War, is available online at Amazon. You can find out more about his novels and wine columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com