Columns by John

John Brown has been a wine and food columnist in West Virginia since the 1980’s. His regular columns appear in the Charleston (WV) Gazette-Mail under the title Vines & Vittles and in The State Journal - a statewide business weekly

Pork and Zinfandel: Just what Dr. Feelgood ordered

Pork and Zinfandel: Just what Dr. Feelgood ordered

Coppola's "Director's Cut" Zinfandel is a perfect companion to the grilled pork chop recipe below With the arrival of fall, my thoughts turn to richer textured wines and fuller-flavored edibles, including all manner of grilled meat dishes that just seem to go so well with this time of year. But just as I began to plan a feast built around the above mentioned victuals, I visited my family doctor for an annual physical and a dose of reality.

Suffice it to say that his prescription for my continued well-being differs considerably from my own opinion of what is best for me. Hey, after all, I’m a devotee of Dr. Feelgood, whose idea of moderation includes being careful not to be so careful. Anyway, the dish I’m going to suggest to you today is really kind of healthy and it does include the liberal application of red wine (which we all know is important to cardiac health).

I'm a man of simple tastes, yet sometimes I am required to consume complex foods with deeply flavored and sometimes esoteric wines, then expected to render erudite opinions on the experience. For example, it’s not easy to explain why rack of antelope infused with lime, kiwi and a balsamic chipotle reduction goes so well with petit verdot grown on the south-facing slopes of Mt. Etna. This job can be challenging!

So when I cook for friends and family, the food is usually straightforward, down-home, meat and starch type meals with fairly inexpensive, no-nonsense wines that taste good and help de-clog the arteries (see, I’m really trying to be healthy). In fact, I am a great fan of thick-cut pork chops, grilled and served with a great big, full-throttle Zinfandel. But to do it right, you’ll need the best chops available and, for these, I count on the good folks from Sandy Creek Farms near Ravenswood.

You may have heard about Sandy Creek. They raise beef, pork and lamb on organic food-stocks with no antibiotics or other additives. They then butcher and flash freeze the cuts of meat which they deliver in and around the Charleston area. If you’re interested in having them deliver to you call: 800-487-2569. I regularly order pork chops from Sandy Creek. Why? Simply put, they are without a doubt the leanest and tastiest chops I’ve ever consumed. Here’s my recipe (which involves preparing a brine and glaze for the chops) along with a few wine suggestions to go with this delicious meal.

1. Start with one and one-half inch bone-in chops. For the brine, you‘ll need one-quart of apple cider and a container or gallon storage bag to accommodate the liquid and pork. To the apple cider add one-quarter cup each of kosher salt and brown sugar and let the mixture brine the pork for about four hours.

2. For the glaze, you’ll need to blend three heaping tablespoons of cherry or blackberry preserves, one-half teaspoon of chipotle powder (or two tablespoons of canned chipotle in adobo sauce) and one tablespoon of white vinegar in a sauce pan. Heat the glaze until it begins to boil and then remove it from the stove.

3. Extract the chops from the liquid and pat them dry. Next, prepare a charcoal fire or start your gas grill. If you have apple wood chips, run them under water for about 10 seconds just to get them wet. Place the chips on the fire, put the chops on the grill and close the grill cover.

4. With a very hot fire, you’ll need to turn the chops after about four minutes to prevent them from burning. The total cooking time should be no more than 15 minutes for the chops (which should be very slightly pink inside). Right before you remove the chops from the grill, baste them on both sides with the glaze and let them cook on both sides for about 30 seconds a side. When you remove them from the grill, baste them again on both sides and serve.

My favorite side dish with these glazed pork chops are baked grits with cheddar cheese to which you can add jalapeno peppers if you like.

WINE RECOMMENDATION: Now, for the perfect wine accompaniments. Try the 2005 Coppola Director’s Cut Zinfandel ($15). Or you might also select the 2004 Renwood Old Vines Zin ($20) or the 2004 Marietta Old Vines Zinfandel ($18).

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