Once the weather moderates, some folks can’t wait to hit the pool, dust off the old golf clubs or dig in the dirt and plant things. Not me. Warm weather gets me in the mood to create delicious salads and follow that course up with a stick to your ribs, spicy and hearty entrée of grilled meat or fish. Of course, then I get to enjoy pairing the courses with wines that further enhance the enjoyment of this summertime meal.
I’ll admit right up front that the two courses I’m suggesting you try are a bit odd (kind of like beauty and the beast), but, honestly, they really work well together. And the wines I’m recommending – both white and red – will benefit from a little chilling in the refrigerator before serving. So here we go.
Salad
The sine qui non of summer salads for this Italian American is Caprese. Visit the Capitol Market in Charleston where you’ll be able to buy the ingredients for this quintessential summer treat. Slice ripe tomatoes into quarter inch rounds and drizzle them with extra virgin olive oil like the exquisite one, Villa DiTrapano, harvested and produced by local owners. Then sprinkle the tomatoes with artisan sea salt from JQ Dickinson. Finally cover the tomatoes with fragrant basil leaves and fresh buffalo mozzarella. The etymology of Caprese translates to “of or near the Island of Capri” so I suggest pairing the dish with either of these two Italian white wines:
2022 Mastroberardino Falanghina ($23) Grown and produced in the hills above Naples. The wine features ripe apple flavors and floral notes with bright acidity, and it complements the Caprese beautifully.
2023 Bisci Verdicchio di Matelica ($25) Vinified in eastern Italy between the mountains and the Adriatic Sea. This delicate white wine has fresh, bright citrus flavors with a distinct nuance of almonds. A bit rounder than the Falanghina, it’s also a great accompaniment to Caprese.
Caprese
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Edible
ArtThe Entree
Baby back (pork) ribs are my favorite meat to barbecue on an outdoor grill. And I prefer to use charcoal when grilling baby backs because of the smokiness it imparts to the meat. You can also get good results by using a metal smoking box filled with wood chips that is placed inside a gas grill. Either method will give you good results. Here’s my recipe for grilled baby back ribs that’s easy to prepare and delicious to eat. Purchase a rack or two of baby backs General Steak and Seafood and Johnnie’s Meat Market -both in Charleston – are my go-to purveyors.
Next, make a dry rub consisting of one tablespoon each of cumin, chili powder, kosher salt, coarsely ground black pepper, brown sugar, smoked paprika and cayenne pepper. Rub this onto both sides of the ribs and then slow cook the ribs indirectly (placing them away from direct heat) for three hours. About 15 minutes before the ribs are cooked, baste both sides with a store bought or homemade barbecue sauce. Here’s my recipe for a delicious sauce: Combine a cup of ketchup with half a cup of white vinegar in a cooking pot. Add a bottle of pilsner or light beer into the pot along with a tablespoon each of brown sugar, molasses, dried mustard and bring the sauce to a boil. Allow it to simmer for about 20 minutes before basting it on the ribs.
Oregon pinot noir and Cotes Du Rhone from France wines are my choices to accompany just about any barbecue, and especially grilled baby backs. Try either (or both) of these wines:
2023 Argyle Pinot Noir Willamette Valley ($27) This Oregon pinot noir has spicy, bright red cherry flavors and excellent acidity that balances and enhances the richness of the baby backs.
2022 Saint Cosme Les Deux Albion ($23) – This southern Rhone red is a blend of mostly syrah and grenache that is fermented in open cement vats and then aged briefly in stainless steel. What you get are pure, deep, dark fruit flavors with freshness that marry exceptionally well with the sweet and smoky baby backs.
John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book – Augie’s Wine –is now available to order online or at his website wordsbyjohnbrown.com. His first two books– Augie’s War and Augie’s World – are also available online and at bookstores around the state. You can find out more about his novels, and review all of his archived Vines & Vittles columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com
