I’m convinced that my obsession with wine and food can be attributed to fifty percent of my ancestral composition – the Italian half. I suppose I should credit the other half (Irish) with my fondness for stronger beverages, and for blarney – my penchant for long-winded descriptions of things (like wine and food) most normal people simply consume.

So, on this most revered of Italian American weekends, when we celebrate Christopher Columbus – we’ll take a look at a special Italian wine, its versatility in pairing with a multitude of dishes, and its lofty standing in the world of wine. Unfortunately, most of us think Italian wines should only be served with Italian foods like pasta in a red sauce. But what I love most about Italian wine is its tremendous diversity in pairing with a whole host of foods. Within the geographic confines of its 20 regions, Italy produces a virtual sea of wine from a dizzying array of grapes.


Today I’ll tell you about a wine that is arguably one of the most revered and coveted bottles on earth – Barolo. Nestled in the northwest corner of the country and in the shadow of the Alps, Barolo is a dark, tannic and full-bodied wine that can improve over an extended period. Another famous red wine of the region is Barbaresco which is made from the same grape (nebbiolo) as Barolo, but the flavors and intensity of the two wines are completely different. Barolo is a wine which can take decades to mature while Barbaresco is a lighter colored and less intense version of nebbiolo that is more approachable in its youth than Barolo. The fertile soil of Piedmont also produces several other excellent red wines such as Barbera and Dolcetto, and is also home to a number of white wines, including Gavi and Arneis, both of which feature light, bright, fruit- forward flavors.


Barolo is named after the town around which the grapes are grown. For a wine to be labeled Barolo, it must be made in the geographical confines of that government-designated appellation. In addition, Barolo must be aged for two years in oak barrels and one year in the bottle before it can be released for sale. Barolos can range in price from about $40 to several hundred dollars a bottle. One way I’ve found to speed up drinkability of young Barolo is to decant the wine for extended periods. For wines under 10 years old, I will pour them into a carafe for up to 12 hours before consuming them.

Two of my favorite Barolo labels


Here are some of my favorite Barolo producers to look for: Poderi Luigi Einaudi 2020 Ludo ($50); 2020 Borgogno Barolo ($70); 2019 Eraldo Viberti Barolo ($58); 2019 Pertinace Barolo ($34); 2018 Pio Cesare Barolo ($80); and 2020 Bruno Giacosa Barolo ($135).


So, what foods can stand up to such full-bodied red wines? As the original home of the “slow food” movement, the Piemontese believe in using local and seasonal ingredients as the centerpiece of the meals they consume. In the fall, mushrooms and squash along with red and yellow peppers predominate along with rich, hearty and flavorful dishes like roasted beef, pork, lamb or game pair especially well with Barolo. In addition, pasta with earthy and intense foods like truffles and mushrooms are also excellent accompaniments to the wine.


Piedmont’s most famous culinary delight is the white truffle – an aromatic, very expensive delicacy that looks like a stone, is hunted and sniffed out by trained dogs, and then surreptitiously dug up by devious sorts who would rather see their first born taken by gypsies than give up the location of their buried treasure. On my last trip to the region, I passed on the white truffles and instead feasted on less expensive fare that paired just as well with the reason for my visit – Barolo!


John Brown is also a novelist. His latest book – Augie’s Wine –is now available to order online or at his website wordsbyjohnbrown.com. His first two books– Augie’s War and Augie’s World – are also available online and at bookstores around the state. You can find out more about his novels, and review all his archived Vines & Vittles columns at wordsbyjohnbrown.com

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